1988 Bass Buggy winter/Gravity project in New Mexico

[ToonGuy]

Many tritoons have the center log forward of the outside logs, as a matter of fact Bass Buggy had a model built that way with a V nose. As far as the strake is concerned, have a machine shop bend you one up out of aluminum and have your welder tack it on when he does the other work...

[Ercarp]

Using a laser level to make sure reference lines are in place

measure once.jpg (58.27 KiB) Viewed 4774 times

measure twice.jpg (102.73 KiB) Viewed 4772 times

looks good enough to start cutting

looks ready to cut.jpg (57.8 KiB) Viewed 4773 times

all the compound angles and round edges was too much, after drawing lines all over the log I decided to make a template to Triple check.

template of transom.jpg (51.83 KiB) Viewed 4775 times

you can see the transom in the back ground

template in the transom.jpg (73.24 KiB) Viewed 4777 times

The template needed to include the top of the cut

Template got a little bigger 1.jpg (76.54 KiB) Viewed 4775 times

Template got a little bigger 2.jpg (74.5 KiB) Viewed 4772 times

first cut, and found a surprise inside...a divider within about 12 inches of the back

center log showing its guts.jpg (95.66 KiB) Viewed 4769 times

side view of first cut.jpg (94.2 KiB) Viewed 4765 times

took it real slow, fitted/shaved a little, fitted/shaved a little

fitting the transom little by little.jpg (82.62 KiB) Viewed 4768 times

probably skipping over a few pics. I feel like I am overloading/spamming my own post. Let me know if I am going overboard on the pics

[Satt]

Wow great pics!

Thanks for the update!!!

[ToonGuy]

A couple of things to watch: The distance from the top of your transom to the bottom of your log. The standard would be +/- 20", or 25" if you like to run an XL shaft. You can always mod the transom top to get it down if needed, and while you're at it I suggest ditching the wood and rebuilding it out of 100% aluminum. You also need approx. 22" from the motor mount to the front of the motor well in order to let your motor tilt completely up to the lock.

[Ercarp]

A few more and I will be up to where we are at the beginning of December

transome fitted (Custom).jpg (90.02 KiB) Viewed 4715 times

here is a pic of the third log on the boat temporarily (the 2X4 is holding the edges of the cut transom)

in the garage on the frame 1.jpg (100.92 KiB) Viewed 4710 times

in the garage on the frame 2.jpg (106.8 KiB) Viewed 4714 times

Here are some dimensions of the center log...seems way too long (sticks out too far out back). What do you think?

too big edited.jpg (83.29 KiB) Viewed 4713 times

sorry about the over sized image...cannot seem to edit it out. At least you can kind of see/get an idea of how tight I was able to fit it in.
Thanks for the comment Satt. And thank for the advice Toonguy! At first I thought about leaving the wood in the transom, or replacing it with more wood. However, I think I will take your advice and try to replace it with aluminum. Thanks a TON for the measurements, that helps more than you know in just re-assuring me that I didn't just ruin a log

My plan from here is to fit a piece of scrap aluminum (probably the "end cap" of the cut off center log) into the hole at front of transom and center log cut out. take the whole mess down to a machine shop to get a quote on bending up another strake. Then I can haul all the pieces to my welder and pray he doesn't freak out on the amount to be done.

[ToonGuy]

As far as your center tube sticking out the back, I see no major problems. Moving it forward of the outer logs in the front won't be a problem, as mentioned many manufactures do just that. You can gain even more room in the rear by many methods. Your stern doesn't have to be a straight line...use that center tube and some extra support and curve the rear out towards the middle. I've even had the machine shop fashion a "Z" shaped cross member with a 4" top lip, then hung the wood over another 3" to gain an extra 5-6" over the back. Be creative, it's been working well for ya so far!!!

[Ercarp]

Thanks Toonguy, those are great ideas. I have thought about doing similar ideas, however I let what material I have on hand limit my imagination. For example, I had planned on re-using the trim (that covers the plywood edge) on front and back. I had toyed with the thought of curf cutting it to make a radius with the trim...but wasn't sure how that was going to look as a final trim piece (with cuts). Rails in front will not be a problem I think the plan is to leave the front open for fishing, diving, etc.. What are my options for trim if I add a radius to front or back or both?

[ToonGuy]

The Bass Buggy has weird trim up front from the get go, so if it was me I'd re-do that. You'll have to forgive me, I sometimes forget people don't always have access to hard to get parts like rub rail. Have a machine shop bend a profile that is the height you want on the side, and 1" on the top. You'd be surprised how much it will bend around a radius. I've also seen where others have mane an unusual front or rear and cut/welded pieces of bent up C channel to form their new rub rail. Just a few more things to cloud your brain!

[Ercarp]

for anyone familiar with aluminum welding. Can I use aluminum pop rivets, to temporarily secure a couple pieces (end cap), without messing with the welding process? Can the welder weld the rivets in place?

Here I am again without a photo...I would like to be able to temporarily hold the "end cap" in place while I scribe the end of the transom, to get a a nice tight fit.

end cap.jpg (100.44 KiB) Viewed 4651 times

I am planning on re-using the end of the center log to fill the hole at the front of the transom

in the garage on the frame 1.jpg (102.04 KiB) Viewed 4647 times

those are the only pics I have on hand, I will try to get some better ones this evening so it makes more sense with the rivets.

[ToonGuy]

Why not just drill them out and weld the holes shut after tacking?

[Ercarp]

lol, I feel dumb...yup that is the plan. I suppose that is why I asked. I can do most anything with wood. Metal is new to me. Thanks Toonguy

[Liquid Asset]

Your design looks similar to what I did to make a third log. I should say what my good friend did with a couple of my ideas. My transom is welded in at the same height as the risers on the center pontoon not lower. This allowed for extra cross members to be used at the transom itself. I wouldn't bother with pop rivets before welding . Your welder can just tack what ever you want in place before he gets started. Aluminum is a strage animal when it is welded. It moves a lot and I don't know if your rivets would hold. Also I would I imagine the welder would rather not deal with them in his way. Any hole you gill is snot he possible leak.

[Ercarp]

That's a great tip, Liquid thanks! I was hoping you would follow my rebuild as it is very similar to yours.

I have hit a bit of a lull, between work and personal life nothing significant has been done. I trimmed and fitted the transom and cap to be a little tighter. I have been searching for a reasonably priced welder. I took the pontoon down to a local fab. shop and they quoted me $600 to weld the transom in place, $400 to cut and bend a new strake and another $200 to weld the strake on. That is a bit to high for me. I am considering buying my own Tig welder and learning how to weld aluminum (I know what some of you will say...but I am always up for learning something new). Needless to say I am not in a huge rush on the rebuild. My deadline is end of April...for crappie fishing in may! Anyhow here are a few more pics (of the same that you have already seen) of where I am until I get things welded up.

2014-11-29 17.26.57 (Custom).jpg (106.8 KiB) Viewed 4521 times

2014-11-29 17.27.27 (Custom).jpg (74.72 KiB) Viewed 4527 times

I guess this is the latest pic

2014-12-08 16.12.56 (Custom).jpg (89.38 KiB) Viewed 4526 times

[ToonGuy]

[Ercarp]

Hope everyone had a great Christmas! I also hope everyone has a great safe new years.

I wanted to post "something" to keep things alive. I found a friend who is helping me with the welding...with that said, I have no timetable of when it will be ready. So, things are on hold for now. I am working on stripping the old paint and logos. Making a few decisions on flooring and decking. When things get rolling again I update the progress with more pics and questions.