Please explain my OMC remote

[guy48065]

Very different from the Merc controls I'm used to.
It's an OMC remote on a 96 with a 2000 Johnson J40PLSSM.
Seller explained the reason the killswitch clip was dangling was just that it didn't work. He only had the boat for a year so didn't know the history. It ran good during our test drive.
SO...
My first time out I go ahead and clip it in place just to be "neat". I'm puttering along slowly and it starts to run a little rough. My first thought is maybe the clip is holding the choke button down so I pull off the clip & the motor dies. But it re-starts right away and runs normal.

I didn't fiddle with it the rest of the weekend and enjoyed my time on the water.

CAN the kill switch activate the choke?
Additionally--what's the knob below the ignition switch? Some diagrams point to a tach output connector there.
Is that really where I would connect a tach if I wanted to install one?

[FLOUNDERPOUNDER225]

Not sure on your dead-man (or kill switch) it may have been disabled or modified, I wouldn't sweat it too much unless you live in a state where it is mandatory (Alabama). The knob below the ignition is a friction control, to adjust your throttle tightness, sometimes the throttle will back off slightly as you are running, causing you to constantly adjust the RPM. You can tighten it up or loosen it via this knob. CW Tightens, CCW Loosens it. and yes there is a connector there for the tach.

[urbnsr]

I think my 1999 Johnson manual states that it can be operated without the kill switch clip although they don't recommend it. Would need to check for sure.

[guy48065]

Apparently my kill switch is bypassed because it shouldn't start or run with the clip off. When I put the clip on it depresses the center of the ignition switch a little--and this plunger is the choke so I'm wondering if that's enough to choke it all the time, how much depressing is normal (probably just to keep the clip in place?), and if there's an adjustment.

How can I test the "choke" circuit to verify the clip is activating it?

[urbnsr]

I checked my 99 manual and it states: "In an emergency situation, the engine can be started without the clip in place. Follow normal starting procedure. Reinstall clip as soon as possible"

So, it works that way by design. Can't say much about the choke. I push in the key (during starting or while engine is running) for choke and have not noticed anything that would make me think the choke is being engaged unwanted.

HTH

[guy48065]

??? What purpose is a kill switch that's "optional"?

So the previous owner ran for a year in "emergency only" mode. What does that mean?

[urbnsr]

I have always had the clip inserted. With that said, I wouldn't want a failing kill switch to keep me from getting back to a dock. If that's what keeping me from getting back, I wouldn't hesitate to pull it. I appreciate the option.

[guy48065]

I checked my 99 manual and it states: "In an emergency situation, the engine can be started without the clip in place. Follow normal starting procedure. Reinstall clip as soon as possible"

My mind remains blown that the manual says the motor can be started with or without the killswitch clip in place.

[urbnsr]

I'll have to look closer next chance I get, but I am thinking that the spring loaded portion for the killswitch clip is a separate collar from the key/choke part on our setup.

Even with the killswitch clip always installed, if the operator doesn't clip the other end to themselves every time, it's the same as not having a working killswitch.

[guy48065]

Does your manual have a wiring diagram that shows the hookup of the ignition/killswitch? Maybe there are some secret hidden contacts that DO something?

I have the Seloc Johnson/Evinrude service manual that covers this decade and there is s section showing the controls--but no description of what it does or how it does it, no wirng diagram.

On another boat forum EVERYONE has responded (ok just 3 bothered) that a killswitch grounds the ignition and HAS to be in place to run. So say the "experts"...

[urbnsr]

I have the factory service and operators manual for my motor, but both manuals do not give details that I came across. More of a block diagram in the service manual and leads me to believe it's more in the key switch and not a separate circuit back to the motor.

I assume the lack of detail is because the motor manufacture doesn't know what remote control is going to be used - at least, not when creating the manuals. I don't find a manual for the remote we have, but the kill switch clip looks mostly like this (not that it really matters concerning the function of the switch, itself, but more because of the possible choke engaging) :

Screenshot from 2016-08-30 17-37-19.png (92.57 KiB) Viewed 3216 times

[guy48065]

Paul,
you'll have to excuse my picking at this one detail but the problem is my boat is 200 miles away so I can't test it myself.

What I remember is that clip snaps into a groove on the ignition switch housing that surrounds the key and choke switch. When the clip is snapped in place I don't see anything move that would indicate the presence of a killswitch.

Is that what you see? Have you ever tried to start the motor with the clip off?
Mine runs better with the clip off than with it attached. I can't explain it, and nobody else has offered any insight, but with the clip in place my o/b ran a little rough after warmup and this roughness went away after a restart with the clip removed.

That's just illogical! It's true that the motor mfr. doesn't know who's controls & switches might be connected to it--all the more reason any o/b mfr. would just use the standard ignition short circuit. And that's why I'm stunned why my o/b runs with the lanyard detached, and your Johnson manual says that's perfectly normal.
.

[urbnsr]

Mark,

What you describe sounds like what I see on ours. I need to look closer at it when we go next time. I *think* I tried running the motor without the kill switch clip inserted wondering if what I read was true, but can't say for sure now. I believe the "kill" part is activated by the transition of the clip being pulled. Maybe it passes through a set of contacts that kills the motor.

Here is something you may want to try: I would do this, if I were in your position. With the motor running, warmed up and the kill switch clip installed, use the neutral lock switch and increase motor speed to about 2000RPM. Press in the key to activate the choke. If the choke is already engaged from the kill switch clip, RPMs shouldn't decrease. If the RPMs drop (quite a bit), then the choke wasn't engaged. Well, it sounds good to me Maybe you have already tried this...

[guy48065]

Paul you feel the slight depression of the choke switch by the clip might be activating the choke?

Last night I did some more rooting around in the o/b service manual, looking at the wiring diagrams for the motor itself and for accessory remote controls. They are pictured separately so trying to determine the functions is difficult.
The motor diagram shows a simple 1-wire from the CDI through a killswitch to ground. The "typical" control box diagram didn't identify any wire as the "kill" circuit but the same color wire (as used in the o/b harness) went to the ignition switch and didn't appear to be a part of the normal power/choke/crank connections. It's a shame the purpose of the various wires wasn't called out in the diagram, so that wasn't much help. I need to take another look at the diagram to see if there's a ground connection on the keyswitch. In my limited experience (cars, trucks, atvs) I've never seen a ground wire to an ignition switch so it would probably have no other purpose than the "kill" function.

Apparently no technicians read this forum.

[urbnsr]

I made myself a note to check much closer next time we go out. I didn't think the portion of the key switch which engages the choke was affected by the kill switch clip. I do know there is plenty of travel when I do push in on the key for choke when starting for the first time of the day.