A folding travel trailer on top of a 28' pontoon boat.

[RonKMiller]

Ya know, that's another really good idea and I already considered that - but I think the UN loading would take a lot more grunt than needed and once again I'm back into major fabrication - even for something as simple as two wheel wells. It would have to have a ramp on the front entry and reinforced sides - pretty much building a rectangular cage.

It would save some money for the chocks and be a VERY clean look...Hmmm. No doubt lower is ALWAYS better even though it would only be about 8" since the spring shackles are mounted upside down on the axles for more off road clearance. Looking good counts big time. If the bottom of the wells had wire mesh it would provide for drainage when it rains. The more I think about this some nice 3 foot long ramps leading to the wells would be very cool - and would not intrude into the fore deck. It would take some serious motive power - like a 12 V winch or come along - to pull the trailer out of two holes. Not sure if I'm willing to complicate things when simple works.

The only negative - and it's a big one - is that I would lose all of my storage space under the trailer. Living inside is fine as long as a lot of stuff - lawn chairs, cooler, extra water jugs, fire wood, grill, kayak, umbrella, etc. is stowed underneath. Most of the areas at Powell I want to go to are a looong way from Marinas (and I think there's only three?) so it is necessary to pretty much take everything you'll need with you for a week on the water. This is going to be a true full amenity houseboat versus a day or overnight camper. I'm sure I'll need to take an extra cassette or two for the head as well.

I'll revisit your idea once I figure out the actual mechanism for loading/unloading. I like pushing (which is easy to do on a flat surface with the Condor chocks) since they "tip" and the wheels more or less fall out with good hard bump. The tire in this chock is suspended slightly above and in the cradle's arms - and doesn't touch the deck. I like this idea, even thought I can't figure out why - it just seems more secure. The wheels will be guided into the chocks via two tracks with probably 1" high raised sides to keep everything in line and the trailer from going into the drink. The one thing I don't like about the track is that it will be a major trip hazard if secured permanently, so it will most likely be mounted with some temporary fasteners and on the deck only for loading/unloading. I can just imagine popping out of the cabin at night for an "anchor check" ... and DOH!

Keep' em coming! There are no wrong answers or ideas when it comes to designing something like this.

I truly appreciate everyone's input - this is so cool to have you guyz helping. Now, how about visiting and helping to get all those 24 year old rusted screws out of the deck? (you just KNOW the heads are going to snap off most of them)

Winter is just around the corner and it's usually about 70F here in January.

More pix here: http://picasaweb.google.com/MillerRonK/ ... YiH8dPCywE#

and here: http://picasaweb.google.com/MillerRonK/ ... OfVicTMyAE#

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[woolznaz]

Ron, good point about the storage below the camper. I would think that space would be hard to give up and I'm not sure you need to get the trailer any lower anyway. If you do decide that lowering the trailer is important, then here is another way to do it. Cut the holes as described above (hopefully between the stringers will work) and then cover them with a steel plate, just barely bigger than the holes. Roll the camper on, positioned on the steel plates. Then jack up the camper about an inch, remove the plates, then lower into the holes. No ramps needed. No heavy duty winch needed. No wheel straps even. You would have the extra step of jacking it up to raise it from the holes or lower into the holes, but it would get the trailer lower if you needed/wanted to. Again, though, I'm not convinced it would be that important to "Get Low" (decent movie if you have not seen it -- Get Low).

On another note, don't you love our 70 degree Januarys?

[RonKMiller]

Ron, good point about the storage below the camper. I would think that space would be hard to give up and I'm not sure you need to get the trailer any lower anyway. If you do decide that lowering the trailer is important, then here is another way to do it. Cut the holes as described above (hopefully between the stringers will work) and then cover them with a steel plate, just barely bigger than the holes. Roll the camper on, positioned on the steel plates. Then jack up the camper about an inch, remove the plates, then lower into the holes. No ramps needed. No heavy duty winch needed. No wheel straps even. You would have the extra step of jacking it up to raise it from the holes or lower into the holes, but it would get the trailer lower if you needed/wanted to. Again, though, I'm not convinced it would be that important to "Get Low" (decent movie if you have not seen it -- Get Low).

On another note, don't you love our 70 degree Januarys?

Another great idea - but you have no idea how lazy I am!

Your idea would work especially well if I had electric jacks mounted at all four corners of the trailer, just touch a button and up OR down - but very $$$. Unfortunately the screw operated stabilizer arms located at the four corners aren't stong enough to support the weight of the trailer. Don't "Axe" me how I know.

I think I'll keep it simple, and I just know I'll need every bit of that storage space - no way around it.

[RonKMiller]

After four new tires, a 250 mile round trip drive in a serious windstorm, and getting about 6 miles to the gallon (it was like pulling a barn) at 50 mph on a curvy, two lane mountain road - she is now home. Whew, who knew towing a toon was so much fun? Thank God for OLD, HEAVY 1 ton Chevy crew cab duallys.

It was SO windy part of the roof started to blow off!

Now safely tucked in out of the weather - and awaiting a refreshing dip in the "test" pond located about 200 yards away. If she's LUCKY she'll get to go swimming this spring.

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[Rooster368]

It was SO windy part of the roof started to blow off!

Well its a good thing you had already planned on taking the roof off it....seems everyone, including Mother Nature, wants to be in on this project

Its a nice looking boat.

BTW - I couldn't see it in the picture, but does it have a 3rd log?

[RonKMiller]

Yep, two 28's and a 20.

Tear down starts in a few days, and was I relieved to find out they used self tapping Phillips head screws to hold the deck on versus bolts. Another guy I ran into at the marina was busy re-furbing an older toon and he said it took him two days of wrestling with frozen ss fasteners to get his deck off. He ended up using a chisel on every one.

I'm planing on using M1 structural adhesive to glue the new honey comb deck to the stringers: http://www.meridianliquidcoatings.com/m ... alant.html

[RonKMiller]

Lots of destruction going on: fore roof, a bunch 'o seats, two tables, carpet, etc.

The flying bridge idea is OUT - too much trouble and I can loose still more weight by leaving it off. It will also offer a much better wind profile.

I plan on mounting the helm on a hinge up front on the starboard side. It will tip off to the side through a space in the railing for loading the trailer, then lock back in place once it is secured. I'll have to buy a new, longer steering cable and others, as well as re-wire the whole boat (which was on my list anyway.)

The two swivel seats, table and couch will all fit into recessed holders on the deck and removed for loading/unloading. I'm using all roto-molded stuff since it is light. There will be bimini tops fore and aft. The rear section will have a 4X8 elevated and folding sun/sleeping deck that will lay on top of the fuel, battery compartments and folding seat backs or it can be used for storing bicycles, kayak, etc.

The attached sketch is - of course - a top view.

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I've got a helper nearby - that growls at me every time I look at him - belongs to the ranch foreman - hilarious since I ask him what he thinks I should do next - and get the same reply EVERY time!

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[hoosiername]

Nida core is great stuff. did you buy it with the wood laminated already to the surface?

I've got 2 4 x 8 sheets of 3/4 with no laminate, just the scrim.



consider two pickup aluminum ramps, store under the trailer, and clip to the front of the toons to bridge to the beach. may need some floatation under the ramps to reduce stress on the deck / boat.

I thought about mounting a pop up camper with out the rolling gear to a toon deck.

you go guy. every mans dreams are his own.

[RonKMiller]

Thanks, I'm going to go with either a fiberglass reinforced epoxy on both sides or aluminum on both sides of 3/4"aluminum honeycomb - still trying to figure out which one would be best. No wood. I'm planning on using a Henry brand elastomeric coating with two thin coats, then mix in some fine sand for the top most coating. I'll probably use a gray tint to cut down on the "harshness" of pure white and to blend better with the aluminum trim and rails. http://www.henry.com/roofing/coolroofco ... ingtitle24

Have not gotten to the ramps yet, too busy tearing things apart, but I've made some good progress - the blue tape on the existing floor shows where the front of the trailer will be along with the hitch:

Thanks for the encouragement - I need all I can get!

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[RonKMiller]

The tritoon was originally equipped with 5/8" 7 ply ACX plywood, I assume it was made from Poplar, Fir or another soft wood. It made it to 23 years, covered with carpet - but really toasted. It probably failed 10 years ago.

I bought Hydrotek Meranti, 1/2" 9 ply to replace it. My thinking is that since it is a hardwood and 9 ply with no core voids allowed it is easily as strong and probably much stronger than new ACX. BS 1088 approved. $66.00 per sheet X 9 plus $125.00 shipping. Ouch, but still an excellent price considering it is delivered to my site.

http://alliedveneer.com/marine_plywood/ ... 16136.html

For a coating I'm going to use Henry premium 291 base coat at (gulp) $141.00 for 5 gallons on both sides plus two coats of Henry 280 white roof coating at (gulp) $123.00 for 5 gallon. It has a 10 year warranty and is their best. The tech rep said that while it was not designed to be used on plywood he called my idea a "good application". Since it is water based acrylic it should bond nicely with the new Meranti. I'll sprinkle in some rubberized "grit" for the top coat for traction or just use common graded sand. Probably end up with a gray tint also to cut down on glare and to match up with the aluminum.

http://www.henry.com/roofing/coolroofco ... ofcoatings

A boat is a hole in the water that you throw money in...

The old deck fasteners (wafer head self tapping) were lots of fun to remove. I had to pound a regular Phillips head screwdriver in to eject the grit/rust from the slots, the pound a large Phillips head in to get a purchase. Then rotate slowly while banging on it with a 5 pound sledge - kind of a ghetto impact driver. Crude but effective. Once loose I could use my Cordless Drill to get them out. Repeat about 200 times... I like Ibuprofen.

Stripped and ready for a new deck - took 4 full days to get it to this point.

[woolznaz]

Now we're getting somewhere . I'm tired just watching this one. Great job, Ron. Keep up the good work!

[RonKMiller]

A huge moment of truth - the trip to the dump to find out exactly how much the stuff I stripped off weighs. The whole project depended on my "eyeball estimate" prior to this - and I was hoping for 1500 lbs. in order to avoid having to use the insanely expensive honeycomb aluminum deck for $2K.

My previous allowable loading was 1750 lbs. My dump load weighed 1727 lbs. so I almost doubled my allowable weight to 3477 lbs. and that's GREAT news. The Meranti plywood order was finalized today and should arrive next Monday!

Fully built out with a new deck, full load of gas and propane, water, batteries, 2 passengers, new deck furniture, etc. and the trailer I will be 1,000 lbs. short of my new max loading.

[woolznaz]

That great news! I'm sure that was a big moment of truth, as you said.

Let's see, I weigh in around 215-220, my wife is really light, and to conserve capacity we'll just drink your beer rather than bring our own.... So, lots of excess capacity still

Thanks again for the updates. This really is a fun project to watch come together. Best of luck with the continued progress.

[mike]

Man, this is going to be COOL!!! Thanks for taking the time to share your journey with us, I cant wait to see how it turns out...

[RonKMiller]

The new console, replicating the OEM unit but half the size and weight. I really don't need a cassette tape player, dashboard and cigarette lighter. Made from 1/2" Meranti BS 1088 9 ply marine plywood. Good stuff.

Screwed: Spax screws do not need pre-drilling even in wood and will not rust. Made in Germany or the USA. Sorry China, you don't get to fly, float or **** with me - EVER.

Glued: Titebond II waterproof glue - also made in the USA. Multiple reinforcement gussets inside along with steel 90 degree braces/straps at all junctions.

Tatooed: My markings with a Sharpie black felt tipped pen (made in Japan??) for the cup holders on top, vintage compass, and glove compartment under the instruments - all yet to be installed.

This is just a "rough in" at this point. I'm re-using as many salvaged components as possible - the final look will be decent since one of the companies I own makes custom BMW motorcycle seats. We know our way around upholstery and such. We'll probably use a padded marine vinyl to cover it.

The console is going to be located 9 feet forward of the location of the original OEM unit, and will have a piano hinge on the bottom right side to allow it to tip off the side and out of the way during trailer loading - along with a restraining cable to limit travel. An internally mounted gas charged strut would be awesome but they always fail after a couple of years. hmmmm, MAYBE... Cable - even though crude - is forever. It will have a locking catch on the left bottom side to secure it to the deck while under way - probably a simple stainless hasp.

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