Bunk Glide Question

[PlaynDoc]

I'm considering ordering http://www.superslide.com/blue-iron.php to use as bunk glides. Im going to get the 1/2" x 3" x 10' length.... I called them today, and they are investigating shipping options and will return my call with a total price. They say that the 3" pieces can be rolled small enough to satisfy UPS, but the 10' length isnt good for shipping. They will cut them to 5' pieces without problem.

My question is...

After adding the 1/2" thickness to the last half of my bunks, it will essentially raise the boat 1/2" on the trailer, but only the rear 10' portion...

Do I risk CRIMPING/DENTING the bottom of the logs - at the place where there's a 1/2" 'drop off' transition from the now raised area, as compared to the original bunks?

I intend to remove all carpet from the area under the glides.

[woolznaz]

I've wondered about this (the unevenness in thickness between the carpet and the glides) as well, although I was planning on doing the front 1/2 (or even just the front 1/3), but not the back 1/2. Have you considered that? It seems to me that adding the glides to the back 1/2 would have no effect as the back 1/2 or more of the toons are floating over the trailer upon launch/retrieval and only the front would have any friction at all.

We have just started backing in a little farther and now I don't have to power off hardly at all, so I think I'm going to stick with my carpet. Just thought I'd throw that back 1/2 vs the front 1/2 idea out there. I would be concerned that the glides would have no effect at all on the back 1/2. Good luck!

[fredeboy]

When I ordered mine a few weeks ago from that company I got the 1/2" x 3" also and 10 pieces cut in to 5' sections ran 50.00 frt to Ft Worth. Why are you doing just the back area instead of full length? Seems if you just do part the front half would be more helpful for loading.

[PlaynDoc]

Well, to tell the truth, I never considered doing front instead of rear, but what you say makes sense. The rear does seem to release easier than the front. Matter of fact, I've torn a portion of the front carpet by powering off too much in shallow ramp. Maybe I'll do the front instead.... If that doesn't do the trick, I'll just do the whole length.

I'd sure like to hear from someone that's used this stuff though.

Another thing I've considered was to cut them into shorter pieces, then attach them with about 6" spacing between each piece.

Although my bunks are 20', only about 17' of the logs actually ride on bunks.

[PlaynDoc]

When I ordered mine a few weeks ago from that company I got the 1/2" x 3" also and 10 pieces cut in to 5' sections ran 50.00 frt to Ft Worth. Why are you doing just the back area instead of full length? Seems if you just do part the front half would be more helpful for loading.

Pictures? Yeah, the 5' lengths ship to my door for $40.00.

It's no problem loading..... It's unloading that seems like the boat is glued to the carpet.

[DWill3332]

Check out my post "Bunk Glides" from March 29th. I would put in a link but I don't know how. The post got hijacked for a few posts talking about safety cables, but it came back on topic. There are even pictures of the glides.

I put the glides on my trailer from front to back and the boat slid on and off with NO problem. As a matter of fact, if I did not have the front strap attached when I backed the boat down the ramp, it would have slid off. I would back the wench off about three turns and the boat would slide back far enough to pull it tight. Loading was a snap.

I used the 3" slides and worried that they would not be wide enough. But when I looked at the wear pattern on the carpet, the top 2.5 to 3 inches was all that was worn. After I mounted the slides, the toons sat on them with no problems.

The slides are definitely the way to go.

[chill'nthemost]

I know opinions are like...... and everyone has one. I just don't understand why anyone would want to anything else but these caps from Eastern. They're grooved, make a full cap, have rounded ends and that's what they're made for. They do cost more, but it's a one time purchase and a lot less hassle. Not to mention they work perfect

http://www.easternmarine.com/Self-Cente ... e-86296-0/

[fredeboy]

Playndoc
We have been in St Martin the last 2 weeks so I have not mounted my strips yet. I am replacing my boards so I am going to mount the strips then replace the boards at the ramp when we unload. Hope to get er done over labor day but I still have to get stainless screws so it may be another week. Who ever gets finished first post a pic.

[TX0303]

How are you mounting the strips, a counter-sunk hole and screws?
Any reason to put carpet on new bunk boards if you are using slides?

[fredeboy]

I am going to use #10 1 1/2" stainless screws countersunk on 8" centers and no carpet. Have not made final decision yet but I am leaning toward using treated 2 x 4. I do not see anyway with the 1/2" of plastic spacer that treated will be a problem.

[chill'nthemost]

Here's pic's of the real deal. No carpet, no counter sinking, no exposed wood, worrying about the extra height etc. They also have the clean finished look of rounded ends fore and aft and the directional groves allow for water to run off so you do get the hydroplane slick "ski jump" launch. And yea, I kinda feel for a second that my sh$t don't stink when I park next to all the other trailers with ripped up carpet and rotten wood at the marina. http://www.easternmarine.com/Self-Cente ... er-86162-/

[ROLAND]

Here's pic's of the real deal. No carpet, no counter sinking, no exposed wood, worrying about the extra height etc. They also have the clean finished look of rounded ends fore and aft and the directional groves allow for water to run off so you do get the hydroplane slick "ski jump" launch. And yea, I kinda feel for a second that my sh$t don't stink when I park next to all the other trailers with ripped up carpet and rotten wood at the marina. http://www.easternmarine.com/Self-Cente ... er-86162-/

Chillin, my carpeted bunks are still in very good shape, but I like that set up you have... obviously 2 for each bunk... are those one continuous piece of material or several lengths butted up against each other? It does look good.

[ROLAND]

chillin... just went to the trailer parts web site that you provided the link for and I think I figured out the answer to my previous questions... it appears that each side of each bunk is comprised of several pieces of bunk glide material butted up to each other with the caps fore and aft, correct? I'm assuming that these bunk glides literall cover the wood bunks ( with no carpet ) not only on the top but on each side as well, correct? and finally, the web site said there was enough material for two 8 foot bunks....on a trailer designed for a 20 foot pontoon boat, does that mean I would need 1 1/2 kits ( 8+8+4 =20 ) to cover one side of one bunk... that would cover just one bunk board, so would I need to buy 6 kits to cover 4 bunk boards... that would run close to 300 bucks... I suppose you can cut the bunk glides to fit your actual trailers length... and you would still have exposed wood on the bottom right? Sorry for all the questions but I am not very good at building / working on things that involve manual dexterity.... Just trying to figure out if those bunk glides would be right for me.. still concerned about the exposed wood on the bottom... they sure do look nice... do you really notice an appreciable difference in launching and loading compared to carpeted bunks?

[chill'nthemost]

Roland, your math is correct, I spent about $300 on the caps. I know it seems like a lot, but I don't foresee ever replacing them again. You do have to butt the sections together, but they fasten on the sides with stainless wood screws and at least on mine I was able to make the sections match up perfectly. I pre- assembled everything on saw horses first. The only thing I drilled in place was the bunks to the trailer mounts after I clamped them in place. I used carriage bolts instead of lags. As far as the open wood on the bottom, I used Douglas Fur and applied a high quality wood preservative to the top, bottom and sides. I'm sure you could use Pressure treated since the toon would never touch the wood, but PT is made out of soft sap wood so it can easily be injected with chemicals. The bottom of the wood dries out fast since it's not covered in carpet and with the wood sealer I put on it I don't think it will be an issue for years. Even for the tops and sides the caps have raised groves so air can circulate to dry the wood between the plastic and the wood.

As far as launch and loading.....huge difference, especially loading

[ROLAND]

Roland, your math is correct, I spent about $300 on the caps. I know it seems like a lot, but I don't foresee ever replacing them again. You do have to butt the sections together, but they fasten on the sides with stainless wood screws and at least on mine I was able to make the sections match up perfectly. I pre- assembled everything on saw horses first. The only thing I drilled in place was the bunks to the trailer mounts after I clamped them in place. I used carriage bolts instead of lags. As far as the open wood on the bottom, I used Douglas Fur and applied a high quality wood preservative to the top, bottom and sides. I'm sure you could use Pressure treated since the toon would never touch the wood, but PT is made out of soft sap wood so it can easily be injected with chemicals. The bottom of the wood dries out fast since it's not covered in carpet and with the wood sealer I put on it I don't think it will be an issue for years. Even for the tops and sides the caps have raised groves so air can circulate to dry the wood between the plastic and the wood.

As far as launch and loading.....huge difference, especially loading

So chillin, can you cut the bunk glide strips... based on the numbers on the web site, 1 set would equal 16 feet in length.. my bunks are 20', meaning I would need to buy additional sets and cut one of the 8' sections in half.....just curious, like I said, my trailer is less than 2 years old and so far no issues with the carpet...but when the time comes I think I'm going to buy what you have. I like the looks of those better than any thing else i've seen... what are they made of and do they scratch up or scar the bottom of your pontoons?