Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

"Bob" is that the guy in Bonita (SW Florida) that has the "Sandford & Sons" junk yard pontoon?

Rascal

Rascal wrote:"Bob" is that the guy in Bonita (SW Florida) that has the "Sandford & Sons" junk yard pontoon?

Rascal

No. I believe you are thinking of Greg F, (or something like that)

Rascal wrote:"Bob" is that the guy in Bonita (SW Florida) that has the "Sandford & Sons" junk yard pontoon?
Rascal

No, it's 10 degrees outside, and my boat is covered in snow at an elevation of 9,000 above sea level, in the mountains of Colorado.

Can this system be used with 2 batteries of extremely different sizes as long as they are both 12V?

BobG wrote:This is how I did it.

The box is a Carlon (Model E989NL) 8” X 8” X 4” Junction Box, from Lowes

The strain relief's are Halex ½” (Model 27693) and ¾” (Model 27697) ACC Non-Metallic Strain Relief Cord Connectors from Home Depot

Throw in two Blue Sea ANL fuse holders with 100 Amp ANL fuses, and a 4-position terminal block with cover for all the ground wires.

If I were going to do it again, I would probably use the Carlon 12" X 12" X 6" box.

I have a question in regards to where to connect a battery charger with this set-up? Go direct to the starting battery?

Thank you,
Reiner

looks great
another spring project
what is the purpose of the start isolation circuit, I see that bob did not do it, is it an optional step like the led indicator.
Also would it be correct to just jumper the (-) on the batteries together and run the house and motor battery (-) off one battery as long as they are bonded just to simplify the wiring with less connections. I noticed the drawing from blue sea does not even show (-) for the house circuit.


Mike

crookedlaker wrote:looks great
another spring project
what is the purpose of the start isolation circuit, I see that bob did not do it, is it an optional step like the led indicator.
Also would it be correct to just jumper the (-) on the batteries together and run the house and motor battery (-) off one battery as long as they are bonded just to simplify the wiring with less connections. I noticed the drawing from blue sea does not even show (-) for the house circuit.


Mike

This may be a better drawing showing the (-) for the house circuit.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resourc ... 310020.pdf

I'm going to resurrect this post from the dead instead of starting a new one.
I'm thinking about adding another battery and adding the Blue Sea M-ACR, my question is do I have to or has anyone NOT installed the Battery switch along with the M-ACR. Is the switch just for a backup if you would need to combine both batteries? I'd like to just keep it a little simpler and not use the battery switch.
Looking at 1 of the diagrams Blue Sea shows on the instruction (below) it looks like it should be fine, just would like to be sure.
Thanks guys.

I installed a VSR (voltage sensing relay) just like the one from Blue Seas without a switch. I also wired it where it only activates when it senses the voltage over 13 volts ( when charging by the motor) and not used the ignition. It has been this way for about a year now and no issues.
My batteries are rarely ever ran down so I don't worry about my motor having enough current to charge them both.