Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

My bunks are going to need a new carpet job real soon. I ran across this product today...

http://www.bunkaps.com/index.aspx

anyone ever try these? Pros cons?

Not sure about the raised portions and what affect this could have on the pontoons, especially while driving down our bumpy US roads!

BTW....how to you guys get the carpet job done while boat is on trailer? I don't have any nearby marinas where I could put boat in water for one full day (what it would take to remove bunks and recarpet)?

Thanks

I used Road King's poly bunk covers when my carpet was in bad shape and love them. Boat slides on and off them good. They have them to cover both 2x4's and 2x6's. They're very easy to install, much easier than carpet. It cost me a little over $200 to do all 4 bunks on my trailer(2x6 boards, i think 16' or 18' each bunk). Here's a pic(not my trailer, but my bunks are identical)



Here's a link to their website. I just measured my length and ordered the appropriate length sections. Calling them is best.

http://www.roadkingtrailers.com/parts.htm


Here are the part numbers you will need:

BG2X6X1 BUNK "GLIDE ON" COVER FOR 2X6 WOOD - 1' END PIECE (EACH) $3.50
BG2X6X2 BUNK "GLIDE ON" COVER FOR 2X6 WOOD - 2' END PIECE (EACH) $6.45
BG2X6X3 BUNK "GLIDE ON" COVER FOR 2X6 WOOD - 3' CENTER PIECE (EACH) $8.75

Here's another pic of them:

Thanks Drock!
Those look pretty good. My part numbers would be different, as my bunks are 2X4. I suppose you order longest lengths and just butt them together?

How long have you had them on? Any issues? warping from sun, etc?

Thanks again

I ordered a set of these for my jetski lifts last August. To date, I haven't received the product, and the owner of the business claims material quality deficiencies as the culprit.

He won't even return my emails at this point, but he did respond to a complaint I filed with the Indiana Atty General's office.

Buyer beware!

Found these....

http://www.easternmarine.com/self-cente ... mber-86162

Tie down has been around for a while. Only problem, is they only come in white! Not sure what white would look like on an all black trailer.

Product looks pretty good. Called Trailer parts store and he said they were made of heavier PVC than the other models he carries. Screw hole areas are heavier PVC. They butt together. I would need several sets for each bunk run. Probably need 4 sets (16' bunks) at $50 each set.....a total cost of about $200 plus shipping!! Ouch!!

I guess not too bad considering they should outlast carpeting by far and easy to install (no need to remove boards from trailer brackets if access and no interference to side of boards).

Thoughts?

I'm free-styling mine this year. What I'm meaning is improvising an available and cheaper product to do or perform another use or purpose. In this case for my boat trailer bunks it's going to be vinyl 4 x 4 fence posts. I'm going to rip them in half right down the middle and will then have two pieces in length with enough beef to cover three sides of the 2 x 4's. Slots will need to be cut in fasting positions because vinyl expansion, not a deal-breaker or issue though in my opinion. In doing the math it appears your bunks would require six posts at $16 a peace making the project come in at $96 plus fasteners..

Great idea Bamby! I love ideas that think outside the box; especially when they use common products/materials that are as cheap as we can get!!!

The only thing is that the 4"X4" vinyl fence posts will be 1/4" too big for a standard 2"X4", which is only 3-3/4" wide. This will create an issue for screwing to side of 2"X4", at least one side.

Thoughts?

SoCalAngler wrote:Thanks Drock!
Those look pretty good. My part numbers would be different, as my bunks are 2X4. I suppose you order longest lengths and just butt them together?

How long have you had them on? Any issues? warping from sun, etc?

Thanks again

They have tongue and groove joints and have stayed together nicely. I have noticed that when in direct sunlight they may "bow" in the middle(with the pontoon off of the boat), but they have never given me any problems. I've had mine for about at year, my buddy has had his for 2 years with no problems. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

Eastern Marine 3 season ago. I pre-cut, and pre drilled on pre cut and sealed Douglas Fur. Using carriage bolts tightened down with air tools so to pull the carriage head flush with the top of the wooden bunk prior to the cap instal. I've seen too many lag bolts back out over time or fall out of carpet covered rotted bunks. People talk about "if you didn't have your toon latched to the winch backing down the launch it would slide off" I doubt it, but who would put your toon in the water before unhooking the safety and winch off the trailer I've seen new carpeted bunks with rips. To me carpet on your bunks is like taking your wet shower towel and throwing it on your hardwood floor and letting it set for 8 hours. Wood is going to rot with wet carpet soaking on top of it.

When I rebuilt mine I took the trailer to a nice quiet boat launch. Floated the toon off and replaced all the trailer bunks rite there. I had everything all ready to go and plenty of cordless tools to make the job a snap. I used the bunk sliders on the front bunks and carpet on the rear ones. The idea is when you back down the launch into the water the rear floats rite up off the carpet and slides nicely down the front bunks. Same thing when loading. The carpeted bunks are under water and just the front bunks with the sliders are exposed. She slides rite on nicely. While I was at it I also installed some self made guide ons to help loading in the wind. Trailer works real nice now.

SoCalAngler wrote:Found these....

http://www.easternmarine.com/self-cente ... mber-86162

Tie down has been around for a while. Only problem, is they only come in white! Not sure what white would look like on an all black trailer.

Product looks pretty good. Called Trailer parts store and he said they were made of heavier PVC than the other models he carries. Screw hole areas are heavier PVC. They butt together. I would need several sets for each bunk run. Probably need 4 sets (16' bunks) at $50 each set.....a total cost of about $200 plus shipping!! Ouch!!

I guess not too bad considering they should outlast carpeting by far and easy to install (no need to remove boards from trailer brackets if access and no interference to side of boards).
Thoughts?

I have this white on black, I'll try to get pics later and post them up.

Bamby wrote:I'm free-styling mine this year. What I'm meaning is improvising an available and cheaper product to do or perform another use or purpose. In this case for my boat trailer bunks it's going to be vinyl 4 x 4 fence posts. I'm going to rip them in half right down the middle and will then have two pieces in length with enough beef to cover three sides of the 2 x 4's. Slots will need to be cut in fasting positions because vinyl expansion, not a deal-breaker or issue though in my opinion. In doing the math it appears your bunks would require six posts at $16 a peace making the project come in at $96 plus fasteners..

This is what I did Bamby---
I went to Lowes, ( Home depot also had the same thing ) and found 1x4 12 foot sections of a hard vinyl that was in the floor molding section.
I don't remember the price but I did my whole trailer for around $100.00, then sprayed it with silicone.
Its not "slick as snot" but absolutely is easier to load or unload.
I can now unload on a shallow ramp that I couldn't before since I don't need as much water.
I just pre-drilled a small indention where I wanted to put my screws so the screw heads wouldn't meet the tubes.
Dropped the boat at the lake and had them on in about 30 minutes or so, then sprayed the silicone.
Very happy with the outcome and cost.

chill'nthemost wrote:Eastern Marine 3 season ago. I pre-cut, and pre drilled on pre cut and sealed Douglas Fur. Using carriage bolts tightened down with air tools so to pull the carriage head flush with the top of the wooden bunk prior to the cap instal. I've seen too many lag bolts back out over time or fall out of carpet covered rotted bunks. People talk about "if you didn't have your toon latched to the winch backing down the launch it would slide off" I doubt it, but who would put your toon in the water before unhooking the safety and winch off the trailer I've seen new carpeted bunks with rips. To me carpet on your bunks is like taking your wet shower towel and throwing it on your hardwood floor and letting it set for 8 hours. Wood is going to rot with wet carpet soaking on top of it.

Chillin....it appears I have the same trailer as yours. I have a few questions about your project if you don't mind.... If you could post some detailed close up pics that would be great!

Your bunks must be 2x4's, correct? How many sets of the covers did you need? How do the plastic sections connect? Did you replace your wood because it was bad? Did you consider replacing with 2X6? Did you use the screws supplied or something else? washers? Did you remove the bunks and lay out on a flat surface when you installed the plastic covers?

I believe my bunks are attached with lags (came this way brand new from dealer). I am the second owner and the boat/trailer/motor are only two years old. I believe the wood should still be in good shape.

I've always through-bolted my bunks on previous boats for reasons you mentioned. I need to find a fresh water marina so I can take boat off trailer and do all of this without being rushed.

Thanks!

DRock wrote:Here's another pic of them:

I have the exact same trailer as yours with the same bunk covers. I am very pleased with them so far. I spray them with WD-40 & the pontoon "glides" on & off the trailer. When I ordered the trailer from a dealer on Kerr Lake (Buggs Island) in Clarksville, I requested these bunk covers. I don't regret getting them at all.