Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

Brothers and sisters in tooner land,,,,,,I need some advise.

My boat sat in a slip for a year prior to my buying it. Needless to say the toons looked awfull, discolored and a mean water line. I got a 1/2 gal size jug of toon brite the other day for $22.00 and it only cleaned one side of one toon, AND the water line area didnt disolve. SO I went and got a gallon of ac coil cleaner and went BACK over the toon again, and it still didnt take the waterline off. I even scrapped the build yo with a metal scrapper, re applied the cleaner, and it is still there.

Now,,, my question is, do i keep putting this acid on my toons and hope that it eventually comes off? Or do I just live with it? The rest of the toons above the waterline look great now, its jut from the waterline down.

Any help would be appreciated. fyi, I mixed the cleaner 50/50 with water.

Thanks everyone!!

Do you still have growth stuck to logs? cleaner won't touch that. If all the growth is off then it should leave the logs clean and white. The white will go away after a while. Also in case your not aware the logs will get black and stained easier unless you protect them with sharkhide

try CLR. It might be hard water deposits.

I used the works and alot of scrubbing over and over till it was all gone then applied the acid to even the color out. Then i just sprayed them with $1 walmart clear coat there's definitely no chrome finish but they look fine.

I polished mine good and slick and didn't even put shark hide on them and they still looking good 3 years later, I don't leave it the water and I wash it down and wipe off anything on the toons, I need to get the sander out and start working on the inside of the toons and see I can get to 17 mph.

The inside never had anything done to the inside so they are still on the rougher side, so I have to start out with the sander and go down to 800 grit before I start polishing again, I had the outside looking close to chrome in a few days a few hours at a time.

the ac coil cleaner needs to be the acid kind. the non-acid doesn't do squat.
eye protection, long sleeves and rubber gloves are a must.
scrub or sand the junk off and then use the coil cleaner to remove the aluminum oxidation.

I tried three different kinds of coil cleaner today. Will report on them later. I did learn several things like don't spray into the wind, don't spray into eyes or open wounds and don't use a hose nozzle that leaks and sprays all over the place when it's off.

I came to the conclusion that regardless of what else you use you better get a jug of muratic acid to do the water line and any other lime build ups. Saves time and money. I haven't tried it yet but think I will try applying the muratic acid with a brush or swab of some sort.

I will do a complete report on my cleaning operation later.

I used an all plastic 2 gallon sprayer that I got at Walmart that way if there is the least bit of wind you can get it all over yourself. LOL

I sprayed one quart of straight muratic acid and that is mean stuff straight. I talked to a dealer and another guy that uses it straight full strength. The dealer is a gal and she takes them to the car wash to do them. The guy cleaned boats for people but said even with good mask and other protective gear that he was going to have to stop using it for health reasons.

a long time ago i cleaned in ground plaster pools using muriatic acid.
that is nasty stuff. i wouldn't want my kids doing that job.
i think a respirator would be a good idea.