Disc brake question

[fiddlebick]

I've had disc brakes on my trailer for a few years now. Sometime late last season I had one of the short lines to the caliper break at the fitting, so I replaced it this week and bled the brakes with the help of my brother. Now in the same week, brother replaced his surge drum brake system with surge disc brakes system. This left us both bleeding our systems the same day on our pontoon trailers. His all new components would lock up the disc much tighter than mine. Using the safety breakaway lever to actuate the piston I can still forcibly rotate the disc (wheels off) by hand, although tough to do so. My question is, should the brake be capable of completely locking, as you would by slamming the brakes in your car, (before ABS) or are they in fact functioning just fine. I understand there is a proportional orifice to prevent on/off braking as the truck hitch engages and releases the actuator. My thinking is that you would never want that trailer to lock up the brakes anyway.

[FLOUNDERPOUNDER225]

bleeding is best done with a mighty-vac hand vacuum pump from the caliper bleeder port, it ensures all the air is out, you may have some trapped air in your lines. Did your brother replace his master cylinder? Just asking because master cylinders are different from drum to disc brakes.

[GXPWeasel]

To answer your other question about should the brakes be able to lock up the disc (essentially, sliding the tires) on a disc brake setup. HELL YES they should.

My drums will lock the tires up easily on my toon trailer. I had to adjust down the gain big time going from my prodigy, to my built in controller in the new truck, because mine were locking on very easy / slow stops.

I agree, I think you might have air in the lines / calipers somewhere. Do they have speed bleeders on the calipers? Those are worth the $2.50 each as well, if they don't. You can find them at any good auto parts store.