Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

How about this product as a under skinning material, it sells for $30.00 for a 4ft x 8ft sheet at Lowe's, its strong and lite, I know most of you use aluminum but this product seems right up there with aluminum at a lesser cost and larger sheets..

It is strong, was at Lowe's today and it will bend almost in half and holds up and its pretty thick but it is still lite weight and very water resistant.

If no one has tried it than I might be the 1st..

http://www.cranecomposites.com/sequenti ... panels.asp

[any thoughts]

Structoglas frp, is an easy-to-clean wall and ceiling panel made of fiberglass reinforced plastic. Structoglas will not rot, corrode, stain, dent, peel, or splinter in the toughest conditions. Structoglas panels install as easily as common wall board on solid substrates. Structoglas is available in different colors and finishes and can be cut and drilled for easy installation. Accessories, such as moldings and rivets, are also available to complete the installation. Structoglas is used in a wide variety of applications where ease of cleaning, sanitation or abuse resistance is required. These panels also meet USDA/FSIS requirements.

Features and Benefits:
Sanitary
Durable
Impact Resistant
Easy To Install
Meets USDA/FSIS Requirements
Never Needs Paint
Water Resistant
Will not Rust, Mold or Mildew

Someone at PDB mentioned they were going to try it, but I was banned there before the guy installed it. I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as you use quality fasteners.

I intend to skin the rest of the PC next spring prior to launch, and this was something I was considering.

If I ever get off my lazy butt I intend to install in the coming 2-3 months, I was trying to break it at Lowe's today and it is very strong, bent it almost in half and gave it a hard hit and it held up good with no dents or could not tell where I bent it, just went back to its normal shape, its also very lite, less than 1/2 the cost of aluminum and since a Lowe's is only 4 blocks from my house I think its a win win..

I would use larger washers (stainless steel or aluminum) so it has a less chance of getting torn off but I doubt it will, just to be safe. Are you going to use rivets or screws ?

Screws with washers, I know rivets are better but what If I need to remove or ever replace screws remove so much easier, self drilling sheet metal screws makes the job fast and easy..

Yeah, the PC's got alot of wiring I'd need to access. I'd probably uses ss screws too.

We use this stuff all the time. They use it on Refridgerated trailers and trucks. We call it Chem Lite. It is designed to have some sort of backing behind it. The stuff can be brittle and it can actually break and when it does it can break into some sharp edges, I would not use it to underskin. JMO

The braces under my crest are every 12 or 16 inches I believe? 18 at the most. I would think it would be fine. My question is this there are all kinds of bolts that come through the braces that have lock washers so how do you keep the underskinning around em? I mean do ya put something on thelock washer and push underskinning up to it to mark it to drill it out. Or just make the pieces to overlap at every brace? What's the best yet easiest way?

Tom

Just skinned my 20' Bentley this weekend. I used three sheets of 4' x 10' 3003 0.050 they cost $77 each,
Aluminum sheet and Stainless steel rivets, I got less than $300 in the total project

Ghost Rider wrote:We use this stuff all the time. They use it on Refridgerated trailers and trucks. We call it Chem Lite. It is designed to have some sort of backing behind it. The stuff can be brittle and it can actually break and when it does it can break into some sharp edges, I would not use it to underskin. JMO

When it gets cold and you hit it hard it can be brittle, but I don't think most will be using there boat when the temps get below 32 degrees.

I seen this stuff used in commercial applications and lasted for years and very tuff but yes can get brittle in very cold temps other than that it should work fine.

$100 is all I suspect I will have invested in skinning using this product.

busatom wrote:The braces under my crest are every 12 or 16 inches I believe? 18 at the most. I would think it would be fine. My question is this there are all kinds of bolts that come through the braces that have lock washers so how do you keep the underskinning around em? I mean do ya put something on thelock washer and push underskinning up to it to mark it to drill it out. Or just make the pieces to overlap at every brace? What's the best yet easiest way?

Tom

I am not sure of what you are asking but when skinning you need to start in the back and work forward, yes over lap each piece by a inch or so at the braces, sheet metal screws will work fine.

The cross members on my Crest were 24" apart. I drilled holes in the skin and used the existing bolts to help hold it on. It is easy to do if you have a helper up top drilling and cutting while you are measuring.

I was planning to buy my aluminum next week and undersin my boat in the next week or so, but now you have me re-thinking the whole idea. Have you decided if you're going to try this stuff?

billyman wrote:I was planning to buy my aluminum next week and undersin my boat in the next week or so, but now you have me re-thinking the whole idea. Have you decided if you're going to try this stuff?

At this point I am 80% sure I am going to use this product, however I will make my final decision when I get ready to do the job in a month or so..

However it is some tuff stuff, go check it out at Lowe's or Home Depot.

I checked out the frp at Lowes today, and was not impressed at all. It may work, but it easily broke when I tried to snap the corner of it. And if you use rivets, I am almost sure it would break easy, even with a larger washer. At the lowes here, it was .090 thickness, and only $25. As I kept examing it, to me it looked like a "bandaid" fix, and when I underskin, I want it to be a Once & done job. I ordered 6061 aluminum .050 4X8 sheets for $72 each I think it was. My only problem is that Crest uses through floor bolts, So I am gonna try to go every 2 braces inbetween overlaps. 2 full sheets will get me all but the front 2 ft or so, and I had my 12 yr old drive whille I laid on the floor to watch the spray, under I will be more than good! The 3rd sheet, I am going to rip into 4 12" wide strips, then bend them at a 90* angle 8"x4", which will but it up & give me a solid 4" return leg, to run to the toons, only leaving less than a 1/2 inch gap to the toons, and I want to let water escape so I think it will be better that way. My floor braces are 1/4" so I will have to use long ass rivets. By centering the full sheets, I still have plenty access to just remove the side flashing to get to any neccessary wiring. Hope it goes well.

Tom