Pontoon Boat & Deck Boat Forum

margaritaman wrote:

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LOL, saw that picture on the net.

My only thoughts: that looks like an accident just waiting to happen...

I think that's more or less just a raft - could not see a motor or any way it could be sea worthy.

Why is moving the helm a big issue? It is just 4 cables (3 mechanical and one electrical) and they all disconnect at the engine easily. You might be buying new cables because they were too long but I ran mine with a big loop in them for years until they died of natural causes. Just be careful not to make the loop too small. It might be more of a lazy "S". If you are moving from amidships to the stern (12 feet?) there will be plenty for a big loop.
Of course if he makes a flying bridge they might end up about right anyway.

GregF wrote:Why is moving the helm a big issue? It is just 4 cables (3 mechanical and one electrical) and they all disconnect at the engine easily. You might be buying new cables because they were too long but I ran mine with a big loop in them for years until they died of natural causes. Just be careful not to make the loop too small. It might be more of a lazy "S". If you are moving from amidships to the stern (12 feet?) there will be plenty for a big loop.
Of course if he makes a flying bridge they might end up about right anyway.

That's good to know - I have not poked around in there yet, going to look at it in person next Thursday - it's about a 4 hour drive but a great excuse for a motorcycle ride. I'm OK with cutting and moving cables, pulleys, etc. and have a swaging tool in my arsenal. It would be very cool to move the existing front of the "hut" all the way back and use the roof for the flying bridge. It would also make a great spot for passengers to relax out of the breeze while cruising on a chilly morning. Lake Powell can be 40F in the morning, and 80F in the afternoon in the spring and fall.

Thanks again guys, you're giving me some great ideas!

Another question: The boat is rated for up to 115 hp as is. Would additional reinforcement of the transom and middle toon be needed to go to 150 hp? - obviously a pro would need to do this modification.

You should have to cut any cables. If the cables are tired you can buy them in just about any length when you replace them.
The shift and throttle cables just snap into the bracket in the motor. The steering cable can be removed from either end. If it is the round steering box the box end is real easy to deal with. The rack units have a big gear rack on one end and the shaft that goes in the motor on the other so you have problems fishing it around corners.

BTW if your cable runs under the boat, and most toons do, sleeve it in a piece of 3/4" smurf tube and it will last a lot longer.

Smurf is that blue flex they sell at HD/Lowes/Menards in the electrical department. Take a turn or two of duct tape around the end at the motor to keep the water out.

If you end up doing this, here is a nice product that will keep you trailer in place (but somewhat expensive - you could fab your own).

http://www.lawnmowerpros.com/ProLockers/ProLockers.asp

OK guys - here's where it gets interesting.

I actually found the original brochure with weight capacities, etc.

It shows a weight capacity of 2900 lbs. (or 12 passengers) and I'm already at 3200 lbs. with 4 people, the trailer and all gear.

Would anyone venture a WILD guess how much all the "stuff" above the deck weighs that I'm going to toss?

If it comes in at a thousand pounds I'm in GREAT shape... There's a lot of metal and wood up there and it would seem I could save an awful lot of weight by going to a honeycomb ($$$$) vs. wood decking which I'm going to have to replace anyway:

I did not see any mention of 3 tubes in the brouchure...do you if the unit came from the factory with 3 logs, or was the 3rd one added aftermarket?

If your not sure you might want to call a sun tracker dealer to verify; that way you will know if the rated capacity is correct for 2 or 3 tubes.

It does note "21", - #3."

Apparently what it does not say is that the third toon is only a partial unit, probably extending half the distance or less forward... but factory equipped according to the present owner who has owned it since day one.

Sun Tracker dealers - and I have talked to a couple - are less than interested in talking to me about a relic like this - that's why I'm here hoping some other knowledgeable owners of this unit or similar can chime in.

I don't understand their logic at all - not ONE of them has recommended buying a new one instead. (which I can easily afford)

All they want to do is get me off the phone. I guess that's what qualifies for sales and marketing these days in the industry. Either that or they are so depressed - and who can blame them - they figure they don't have a chance of selling anything in the off season (for most of the country.) Sad, really sad.

My bet is that your camper will be less weight than what is being removed BUT that is irrelevant at this point. In order to get this "certified", no one will care what was on it, they will care what the toons will handle.

You know:

The weight of the camper
The weight of the motor
The weight of the helm
The weight of fuel
The weight of the deck (or close to a good guesstimate)

You then have to show that 3 toons will handle the above.

BobL wrote:My bet is that your camper will be less weight than what is being removed BUT that is irrelevant at this point. In order to get this "certified", no one will care what was on it, they will care what the toons will handle.

You know:

The weight of the camper
The weight of the motor
The weight of the helm
The weight of fuel
The weight of the deck (or close to a good guesstimate)

You then have to show that 3 toons will handle the above.

An excellent point, but I'm used to dealing with air craft certification - both home built and those with a standard airworthiness certificate. Keeping a detailed builder's log with photos and actual weights of the larger components should be enough for even the most jaded marine inspector. I've got the manufacturer's data plate to work with which I'm sure they'll enforce with gusto. Having your "ducks" - or should I say "toons" in a row makes their job easy - you've just got to keep them nodding their heads yes from the minute they see it until they sign off. They're especially going to be interested to see how I tie the trailer down...

BobL wrote:If you end up doing this, here is a nice product that will keep you trailer in place (but somewhat expensive - you could fab your own).

http://www.lawnmowerpros.com/ProLockers/ProLockers.asp

I like that a lot, thanks. Adding some nylon wheel tie down straps and ratcheting fasteners for back up over top the tire would be bulletproof - and they can easily be repositioned to get the cg just right. We just happen to have a manufacturer of mil spec ratchets right here in Tucson that I already do business with. NOT made in China, they have contracts with the Navy for container controls. I would imagine a state marine inspector would approve.

Whatever way you do it, I WANT TO SEE SOME PICS!! This is a crazy idea but it just may work? What about finding a way to load it in sideways so the door faces the front? You could park at a loading dock and use ramps and simply roll it off? Would it fit sideways?

Hmmm, an interesting idea but I think it would be kinda' like flying backwards in an airline seat... which I have done. REALLY uncomfortable.

Somehow 19' feet sideways bumper to hitch on an 8' wide boat just isn't right, and it would really limit access to a lot of the very cool canyons in Powell, but thanks for thinking "horizontally".

Just out of curiousity, do you plan on keeping the play pen?

If not, is it legal to remove the fencing (even if it is just the front railing?

Mmmm, this will be fun. The first project of the Winter and we get to watch.