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Replacement fence panel

Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 1:32 pm
by Mrtoler
I'm wondering if anybody has replaced there panel? I found it on pontoon stuff for$160 it's a 60'x24"s tall roll, can it be cut easy? Does it replace the entire panel or just the outside?

Re: Replacement fence panel

Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 3:13 pm
by texaspontoon
I considered it, and actually did a similar post on this subject. What people told me is that you have to chave an air chissel or something to open up the channels on the top and bottom of the fence. It looked scarry to try, so I decided to live. There are a couple of other posts on here about people "wrapping" their boats with a "wrap" like you see on people's car for advertising. Do a search on this website for "wrapping your toon"

How bad is your existing fence? I have some dents and scrapes from docking, and my boat is only a year old! Each time it happens I have to count to 10!

Re: Replacement fence panel

Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 4:39 pm
by lakerunner
Older toons used pop rivets to hold panels on. Newer use a crimped flange the panel sits in

Re: Replacement fence panel

Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 6:27 pm
by Mrtoler
I wouldn't say my panel is in horrible shape, but you can tell it's a 92 model...it's got a few small dents here and there and one nickel size hole. I plan to wrap it with custom graphics with a dodge theme to match my truck, just thought it would be better to apply the graphics to new panel.

Re: Replacement fence panel

Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 8:18 pm
by GregF
I have had to put a panel back in mine from a tree limb incursion. It is far from easy to do. The manufacturer puts them in before they weld it up I bet. The problem is there is not that much "bend" in that flange. If you try to bend it all the way out it will snap off. You can use a gasket scraper to open it up but you only want to open it up 5-10 degrees.
If there is a curve and no welded upright you can use a hydraulic jack to open the top and bottom up a bit, work in the ends and put in the curved part last and let it down. The gasket scraper can help you guide the metal into the flange. A 6-8" drywall knife works on the long straight sections.
The real trick is getting one part in without losing another part.

I try to "Dolly out" dents with the panels in place. A plastic faced or hard rubber hammer and a big block of wood for the anvil works well.

Re: Replacement fence panel

Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:08 am
by repdah
With the 2011 pontoon boats coming out with the panel on the outside of the rails, why not just get new paneling and put it out side with screws or rivits and leave the old "Ugly" one on the inside still in those God awful crimped edges