2000 yamaha 150

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Mrtoler
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2000 yamaha 150

#1 Post by Mrtoler » Sat Oct 09, 2010 7:22 pm

Just had a guy offer me a yama 150 with a new powerhead and no controls for $4,000 sound like a good deal? My boat is rated for a 120, but I plan on doing a 3rd toon!
Ryan, Martha, Ana and Nathan Toler.
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lakerunner
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Re: 2000 yamaha 150

#2 Post by lakerunner » Sat Oct 09, 2010 7:59 pm

Overpowering is dangerous plus can void insurance and some state lake police will ticket you for it. If it is in good shape and depending on hrs it could be a pretty good bargain
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ROLAND
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Re: 2000 yamaha 150

#3 Post by ROLAND » Sun Oct 10, 2010 2:18 am

lakerunner wrote:Overpowering is dangerous plus can void insurance and some state lake police will ticket you for it. If it is in good shape and depending on hrs it could be a pretty good bargain
Loyd... funny this topic came up today. This afternoon I was over at bass pro shop and just happened to stop and glance at their outboards.... I noticed that they had a merc 115 hp 4 stroke for about the same $ as it would take to replace my Yamaha 75 hp 4 stroke. When I looked at the specs on the merc, I noticed the Merc weighed just about the same thing as my Yammy, actually maybe 50 lbs less then my yammy and I thought boy, If I was looking to upgrade my motor, the Merc would give me an additional 40 ponies and weigh less..... Never even thought about over powering as my boat is rated for 75 max..... Obviously since my boats only a year old, not even entertaining the thought of replacing the motor, it was just a thought... by the way if the lake patrol were to catch you and notice your boat was running more power than the sticker allowed, what would be the consequences? also, you say over powering could be dangerous... as long as the motor dosn't weigh more than what's allowed, what would make it so dangerous? Just curious. I guess your right about voiding your insurance... not much chance they would pay up if you had a boating accident and they found out you were running a bigger motor than the boat was rated for....
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lakerunner
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Re: 2000 yamaha 150

#4 Post by lakerunner » Sun Oct 10, 2010 6:49 am

In Oklahoma you will be kicked off lake and fined. Toon makers have a formula they use for power so they know that is the most the toon can safely use. A 115 prob wouldn't cause that much of a problem but in case of any damage you get your insurance would likely void your claim.
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moregooder
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Re: 2000 yamaha 150

#5 Post by moregooder » Sun Oct 10, 2010 9:45 am

the weight of the motor is only a small part of the equation, more important is how much force the transom was designed to take. the logs are also made to a hp rating if you over power the boat you may start to see problems arise were the logs bolt to the deck. a round log that just has individual brackets welded to the tubes for mounting is not as good as a round log with a C channel welded to its entire length. the welds and brackets are repeatedly loaded in every turn and wave, a lot of torque is put on those welds and the bracket or the log will crack right at the weld if you power beyond design specs. even U shaped logs are only as strong as what they are bolted to.

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ROLAND
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Re: 2000 yamaha 150

#6 Post by ROLAND » Sun Oct 10, 2010 10:15 pm

moregooder wrote:the weight of the motor is only a small part of the equation, more important is how much force the transom was designed to take. the logs are also made to a hp rating if you over power the boat you may start to see problems arise were the logs bolt to the deck. a round log that just has individual brackets welded to the tubes for mounting is not as good as a round log with a C channel welded to its entire length. the welds and brackets are repeatedly loaded in every turn and wave, a lot of torque is put on those welds and the bracket or the log will crack right at the weld if you power beyond design specs. even U shaped logs are only as strong as what they are bolted to.
See that's the beauty of this forum... all I thought about was the weight of the motor...the way the pontoons are welded never even entered my mind...... Think I'll just keep mine to specs... thanks again.
Roland & Jo
2010 Bennington 20 Sfi
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texaspontoon
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Re: 2000 yamaha 150

#7 Post by texaspontoon » Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:07 am

Ok...you got me.., I am going to disagree, first of all...a regular mechanic would probably never install the motor because of liability.

But truth be told...there are thousands of boats running around out there with the "Tim the Tool Man Taylor Syndrome" MORE POWER : :lol3 !

I agree that it is not the best idea, and that it could be dangerous, and it could cause problems....

BUT.....so can putting a small block chevy in a Jeep CJ5, or a Chevy Vega, or putting a jet powered engine on a drag boat. You can do all 4 if you make some safetly modifications (the 4th being putting a 115 on a 75hp boat).

If you were going from a 75 HP to a 150 or 200+HP you a DRASTICALLY Changing the performance of your boat. It simply could not handle it unless you were to add a 3rd toon, or modify or reinforce the transom and the toons. If you didn't you WOULD screw something up or have your boat get out of control on you because you were going WAY too fast.

But the reality is weight on the transom is a huge limiting factor because it effects how your boat sits and performs in the water. If the weight is within 50lbs it will not matter at all. But doubling and trippling your transom weight coupled with speed and thrust would cause problems major problems. but...going up 40 HP and an increase of less than 50 lbs will not be noticeable. Yes, it would void your warranty.

But in my opinion a good fabricator could easily reinforce your transom and toons a little, even add some lifting strakes for improved handling, and easily run a 115 on your boat. It is not like that is going to give you 50mph extra! It is going to give you 10-20 mph extra, and that is not going to make you take off like a cessna floatplane.

In the end..it is probably not worth it..it is probably better to just buy a different boat suited more to your new desires. But there are plenty of boats out there with modifications that made them faster with bigger motors. Just think of the guy running twin 300's hitting 100mph. He did some serious mods but 600HP? Come ON! :alright

Always best to be safe..but anything can be done if done by the right person. In light of your previous post on your mechanical abilities, it is probably best to stay "stock". My boat is rated for a 225. I somtimes wish I had twin 225's, or a 250HP. But then I come back down to earth and decide to be happy where I am with my 150.
ROLAND wrote:
moregooder wrote:the weight of the motor is only a small part of the equation, more important is how much force the transom was designed to take. the logs are also made to a hp rating if you over power the boat you may start to see problems arise were the logs bolt to the deck. a round log that just has individual brackets welded to the tubes for mounting is not as good as a round log with a C channel welded to its entire length. the welds and brackets are repeatedly loaded in every turn and wave, a lot of torque is put on those welds and the bracket or the log will crack right at the weld if you power beyond design specs. even U shaped logs are only as strong as what they are bolted to.
See that's the beauty of this forum... all I thought about was the weight of the motor...the way the pontoons are welded never even entered my mind...... Think I'll just keep mine to specs... thanks again.
Sunrises, Sunsets, God and Country, Family and Friends enjoyed on my 2009 25' Voyager Fish and Cruise Dlx w/ Honda 225 (Top speed 42MPH light, from a 150-225 and added lifting strakes)

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margaritaman
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Re: 2000 yamaha 150

#8 Post by margaritaman » Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:44 am

Even though my boat was rated for a 115, when I switched from a 50 to a 115 the last stringer on the boat carrying the transom started to sag. I had to install an 8' long by 1/4 inch thick aluminum angle iron accross the back of the boat to support the additional weight.
Cruising the salt waters of East Florida.

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GregF
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Re: 2000 yamaha 150

#9 Post by GregF » Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:12 am

I think when he adds the 3d toon he has already altered his boat enough that the label no longer applies. Call me a rebel but I would scrape that label off.
YMMV but in Florida, the original dealer is the last one that really needs to have that label. If you use the federal rules, a 20' x 8' pontoon boat computes out to 225hp or something. (based on the formula of width times length times a number)
I posted that all on the last thread where we talked about this.
I agree the boat needs to be strong enough but again, all of that engineering went out the window when he altered it with the 3d log.
If they are really that anal in your state, re-title the boat as home built after you alter it.
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Rooster368
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Re: 2000 yamaha 150

#10 Post by Rooster368 » Mon Oct 11, 2010 10:37 am

lakerunner wrote:Toon makers have a formula they use for power so they know that is the most the toon can safely use.
Call me a conspiracist, but although I do agree manufacturers have safety in mind when they draw up these ratings.....I also think (to a higher degree) it is a way to upgrade you. A pontoon is a floating deck, with the exception of superfluous upgrades (carpet and seating), the only thing that really matters is handling and horsepower. If we could all buy the cheapest model and put 300 hp motors on it, then why would ever upgrade to the top of the line unit (with all the overpriced accessories).

Never buying a new one, this is how I imagine the conversation goes:


<Salesperson> What are you looking for?
<Customer> I would like a 24' pontoon, and stay under $xxxxx
<Salesperson> This model is under $xxxxx
<Customer> Ok, I would like a 150 hp motor 4 stoke
<Salesperson> Sorry, that model only accepts a 120 hp, but if you want a 150 you will have to go with this model which costs $YYYY
<Customer> but I don't need the premier seats, or textured carpet.
<Salesperson> well I guess we need to consider a 120hp, since we can't exceed the ratings.

I may be professing my ignorance, but I just don't trust salespeople or manufacturers, because it is always about the Up-Sell.

There has to be people out there that you can hire to offically re-certify boats.....especially if it is science based, and not some sort of vodoo magic.

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GregF
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Re: 2000 yamaha 150

#11 Post by GregF » Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:38 pm

I suppose the real answer would be to get up under a number of different makes and models and compare the construction.

In the case of my old boat, it was totally rebuilt, beefing up all the contact points, 2" square tube stringers and 3/8" ss fasteners at all points. The plate that came with this boat is irrelevant. I have talked to lots of water cops and nobody has ever asked me about it.

I really think the stresses of going over waves at various angles are far greater that you get from the engine and an incursion with a dock or piling is a lot more stressful when taken on a corner ... as they usually are. That will rack the whole boat.
1974 Harris
70 HP 4 stroke EFI Yamaha

Bmac
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Re: 2000 yamaha 150

#12 Post by Bmac » Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:41 am

GregF wrote:I think when he adds the 3d toon he has already altered his boat enough that the label no longer applies.
I agree the boat needs to be strong enough but again, all of that engineering went out the window when he altered it with the 3d log. If they are really that anal in your state, re-title the boat as home built after you alter it.

I really think the stresses of going over waves at various angles are far greater that you get from the engine and an incursion with a dock or piling is a lot more stressful when taken on a corner ... as they usually are. That will rack the whole boat.
I'm with Greg on this,especially if you hang that motor on a center transom tube. The torque of the motor is now distributed along the whole length of that tube,not just the last few stringers. The rest of the toon is just along for the ride. Mounting that tube solid and adding additional crossmembers will help the stress of hitting waves harder,but I think they need to be added all the way to the front where the pounding starts.

My center tube is just about done,and I'm installing a 150 on a 120 rated 24' pontoon. "re-title the boat as home built after you alter it." That's my plan. Will let you know how it goes.

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