ok..Noobie question about loading

[Lunker]

Just be aware some ramp owners will kick you out and bar you for power loading. It is tough on the end of the ramp. Make sure it is OK before you do it on a strange ramp.

+1

[kryptonite]

Just be aware some ramp owners will kick you out and bar you for power loading. It is tough on the end of the ramp. Make sure it is OK before you do it on a strange ramp.

Any time you power load, you shouldn't gun it. I always trim up and only give just enough throttle to move it up the trailer. If you have to gun it, then you are eroding the end of the ramps away.

Our ramp has a huge hole at the end. (DON'T ASK ME HOW I KNOW). Some ramps have concrete down a long ways, others only have it part of the way down.

[SoapPeddler]

This is good information for a newbie like me.

I got lucky. Right after I bought my trailer, a friend of a friend offered to let me park at their dock for the summer. Its only 1.2 miles from my house.

My trailer has bunks, but I didn't buy the guides. Would it be possible to make my own from 2x4"s and U-bolts or is it necessary to buy them from the marina?

[chill'nthemost]

Just be aware some ramp owners will kick you out and bar you for power loading. It is tough on the end of the ramp. Make sure it is OK before you do it on a strange ramp.

I honestly wasn't aware you could load a 25ft toon any other way but to drive it on. I can't imagine trying to float on and stay lined up on the bunks

[ROLAND]

This is good information for a newbie like me.

I got lucky. Right after I bought my trailer, a friend of a friend offered to let me park at their dock for the summer. Its only 1.2 miles from my house.

My trailer has bunks, but I didn't buy the guides. Would it be possible to make my own from 2x4"s and U-bolts or is it necessary to buy them from the marina?

I'm sure you could probably make a set of your own... I bought my 48" guides over the internet.... I think they're made by a company called "long Run"...

[Drago]

Thought I would add my way. Right now I have quickly degrading carpet on wood bunks. I back the trailer in far enough to get the carpet wet, then pull out until the rear 12" of the bunks are submerged, then lock the truck down. Joy gets in the truck and I motor the boat into the 3 Vs of the bunks. This can be a bit taxing if there is a nasty crosswind. Once the front of the toons are wedged into the bunks, I use the motor to line up the rear and use a little power to edge forward. Joy can feel me making this move and will slowly reverse the truck and trailer to allow me to slide the boat up to the stops. At this point somewhat more than half the trailer is in the water. I walk up to the winch to hook up and can check to see if the boat is straight there. If the ramp is a steep one, make sure to trim or tilt up the motor a bit or you might put some extra cup on your prop when it encounters the concrete One more really important move - - kill the motor before telling Joy to slowly pull out. I usually get down as she pulls out to check the boats location on the bunks.

There have been times when the boat is not tight against the stops. When we get the truck/trailer straight and level we pull the RINKER MANEUVER -- stop the truck abruptly to slide it tight against the stops, then tighten the winch. This little move was taught to me by Jerry Rinker (65 year old fart that races trihulls and sells boats) and I'm fairly sure that it could have some negative side effects but I think "easy does it" is key to reducing damage.

[GregF]

My HOA will pull your key for power loading. They just spent $27,000 fixing the ramp.

As for the guides. I made mine with 2" gray PVC (UV protected electrical conduit). I used 2 90 degree sweeps and made a big "U" that bolts to the cross member in the back of the trailer.
I even had holes there to use. YMMV on that.

[SoapPeddler]

My HOA will pull your key for power loading. They just spent $27,000 fixing the ramp.

As for the guides. I made mine with 2" gray PVC (UV protected electrical conduit). I used 2 90 degree sweeps and made a big "U" that bolts to the cross member in the back of the trailer.
I even had holes there to use. YMMV on that.

YMMV?

[GregF]

As for the guides. I made mine with 2" gray PVC (UV protected electrical conduit). I used 2 90 degree sweeps and made a big "U" that bolts to the cross member in the back of the trailer.
I even had holes there to use. YMMV on that.

YMMV?

Your Mileage May Vary?
You may not have the appropriate holes