Changing motors. Questions...

[yardbird]

Going from a 30hp 2-stroke that weighs 100 pounds to a 40 hp 4-stroke that weighs 200 pounds.

Pretty sure me and my brother can muscle the 2-stroke off. Or get my nephew who is like a linebacker.
Then going to replace the transom (was going to have to do this anyways)

4-stroke is brand new, in box, never seen water. Dealer said it would be fine to just leave it crated for the winter (in my garage) and install it in the spring.

I've seen several guys on here that have done motor swaps. What would you say is the safest way to lift the 40 onto the boat? I believe it comes with the lifting eye. It will be laying flat on its side as that's how it is in the crate. I am guessing I have to somehow peel off enough packing to get the cowl off and attach the lifting eye (...pretty sure it's the kind that screws into the flywheel... not a permanent one , but I could be wrong about that).... so #1 I have to get it upright. Then actually lift it and get it to the boat.

I turn 65 on Wednesday. So not exactly a spring chicken, but still not afraid of some grunt work. I'd mainly like to see if I can make this easier and be sure nobody gets hurt in the process. I weight 208 pounds. If I fell on someone it'd hurt. And I don't have sharp edges. And... I know I can lift my brother off his feet (he weighs about the same as me) in a bear hug type lift, but not for long I wouldn't want to carry him far.

So.... 2-stroke comes off, I inspect the transom pod just to make sure all the mountings are in good shape, no cracks, etc.... replace transom wood.... then hang this 200 pound motor on it.

Ding! A little light goes on in my head..... "you just DOUBLED the weight of that hunk of meat hanging at the very farthest back of your boat. You might want to check your trailer's tongue weight!"

I was thinking of making a stand for the 4-stroke, unboxing it, and getting it standing upright for the winter. Believe it or not I think that'd take up less room than the crate it's in. The crate is 69 inches x 49 inches x 24 inches. If I build the stand, I would put really decent casters on it.
So my next question would be.... do any of you in cold climates, remove the motor from the boat for the winter? My boat will not be in a garage, but it WILL be covered. I think most people around here leave motors on and just make sure they're covered well. Because if that's the case, then I'm kinda stuck with an engine stand to store and never use.... until the next time I have to replace the transom....

I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on all this.

[NonHyphenAmerican]

In my experience, a two wheel dolly is a great motor stand.

To remove the two-stroke, lever the dolly under the skeg (bottom of outboard below the prop) up under the two stroke to lift off transom. Move backwards from stern of boat, stand dolly down, then move to where you want to store 2 stroke.

To put new four stroke on stern of boat......

Simply stand the motor upright, use the transom clamps to hold it onto the dolly.

When mounting the motor onto the transom, rotate the motor so that the clamp side is facing away from you.

With the skeg on the bottom of the dolly, you can lever the dolly handle down, thus lifting the motor up for the transom.

A piece of plywood with some rubber matting helps keep the motor from skidding when using the dolly as a lever to lift it.

Easy peasy.

This is kind of an illustration of how to use a two wheel dolly as a motor stand.



http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wDXviFrxca8/T ... 010822.JPG

[yardbird]

Hmmm.... I could see the dolly for the 2-stroke. I have a dolly rated for 750 pounds with nice tires (not those little hard rubber hockey pucks)....
...but I think I'd be afraid the 4-stroke would tip it.

And..."simply stand it up" ....heheh.... I'm hoping that's easier than my brain is calculating. Nothing 200 pounds sounds simple at this point.

And it's really ok to stand the motor on its skeg? Because that sounds like it would be really helpful just in terms of repositioning for a lift.

I realize some...or all... of these may sound like dumb questions, but ....we owned boats when I was growing up and I guess I just never was around for some of these things.

I have some inch and a half square tube (steel) .... I wonder if a guy on each end of a 6 foot piece of that could lift this motor by the eye.

[Bamaman]

Motors are notoriously top heavy. And 200 lbs is much more to handle than a 100 lb. motor. I would use a nylon sling and do the lifting with a come a long.

Why don't you want until Spring to buy the motor? You're knocking yourself out of 6 months warranth.

[yardbird]

[quote="Bamaman"]Motors are notoriously top heavy. And 200 lbs is much more to handle than a 100 lb. motor. I would use a nylon sling and do the lifting with a come a long.

Why don't you want until Spring to buy the motor? You're knocking yourself out of 6 months warranth.[/quote]

$4600 complete if I take this year's model now. Includes remote, cables whatever length I need, and there's even a new gas tank in the box! heheh
MSRP is like... $7200 which I know most all dealers beat, but still this is about $1000 less (maybe more than $1000) than the lowest price I've seen anywhere.

[Bamaman]

the cheapest online prices for 40 np Mercury is $4930 minus a $335 Mercury sales incentive. That's just the bare engine without controls.

You are getting a great deal. Go for it.

[Seon]

Depending on the motor's brand, most have lifting eye pads to hook a clevis and chain.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/shop ... Y&usqp=CAc


Rent a motor cherry picker and can be done with the swap within a couple of hours.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-TON-Engine-Mo ... 1697304569

[NonHyphenAmerican]

I used two wheel dolly's to move 400 pound barrels for 35 years.
A lot of it is "balance" and a lot of it is experience at knowing how to hold your mouth right while doing it.
Sometimes I forget that most people aren't used to balancing a load.
"Tipping" a motor to stand it up isn't as hard as picking up the entire motor.

However, while thinking this through, I had an idea for you.

Take your boat to the dealer selling you the new motor and ask him to hoist the old one off and the new one on.

I'm betting he will do that at little or no cost.

Just an idea.

[yardbird]

[quote="NonHyphenAmerican"]I used two wheel dolly's to move 400 pound barrels for 35 years.
A lot of it is "balance" and a lot of it is experience at knowing how to hold your mouth right while doing it.
Sometimes I forget that most people aren't used to balancing a load.
"Tipping" a motor to stand it up isn't as hard as picking up the entire motor.

However, while thinking this through, I had an idea for you.

Take your boat to the dealer selling you the new motor and ask him to hoist the old one off and the new one on.

I'm betting he will do that at little or no cost.

Just an idea.[/quote]

That would be exactly what i WOULD be doing except.... A) the boat's still in the slip (I know...that one's easily remedied) and B) I have to replace the transom

[yardbird]

[quote="Bamaman"]the cheapest online prices for 40 np Mercury is $4930 minus a $335 Mercury sales incentive. That's just the bare engine without controls.

You are getting a great deal. Go for it.[/quote]

And..... that's still a Tohatsu. Tohatsu builds the lower horsepower Mercury motors and several other brands as well...

[Retired OG]

When I replaced my transom this past spring, I used a "come along" tied off to a stout branch...I'm about the same age and weight as you, and did this all by myself with no problems...

[yardbird]

[quote="Retired OG"]When I replaced my transom this past spring, I used a "come along" tied off to a stout branch...I'm about the same age and weight as you, and did this all by myself with no problems...[/quote]

I'm curious what you used for transom material. I have a woodworking shop out back, but I'll tell ya, this is looking like the most expensive little piece of wood I'll ever fabricate!

"Oh, just use marine ply..." ..... ok but I can only find full sheets at $100 a sheet for 3/4 and I only think I need a quarter sheet!
"...and seal it good with epoxy..."..... yeah... and West Systems epoxy and hardener will run me about $50 EACH.... per QUART!

I'm guessing .... since I have to measure it yet.... but guessing I could cut the transom pieces out of a couple 2x2ft squares of 3/4.

For $200 I could buy a 2ft x 4ft piece of inch and a half coosa board and never have to deal with this again
And STILL have more than I need!

[NonHyphenAmerican]

I once replaced the transom on my little Lowe Fishing boat.

I went to "The Yard Store" where they have surplus material, including from what was then Boeing.

I bought a piece of 1" thick Aluminum Scrap and cut it to fit the transom, then bolted a 1x6 to that for the motor mount clamps to grab hold of.

I paid $35 for the piece of scrap 1" thick Aluminum.

Maybe you could do that instead of the marine grade plywood.

[yardbird]

[quote="NonHyphenAmerican"]I once replaced the transom on my little Lowe Fishing boat.

I went to "The Yard Store" where they have surplus material, including from what was then Boeing.

I bought a piece of 1" thick Aluminum Scrap and cut it to fit the transom, then bolted a 1x6 to that for the motor mount clamps to grab hold of.

I paid $35 for the piece of scrap 1" thick Aluminum.

Maybe you could do that instead of the marine grade plywood.[/quote]

I've thought about doing that. Just wonder how thick is actually necessary.

[Bamby]

Maybe a group purchase? I'm sure other members here me included also could utilize some marine plywood to replace their motor transoms also. So if this could work out it would cost out to just over three dollars a square foot at actual costs per sf. Four dollars a sf is probably fairer to the person who picks up the plywood and has to lay out and rough cut the the balance of plywood purchased by the other members. Could actually be win, win situation for several people that may be needing some.