
Project Twin
Moderators: Redneck_Randy, badmoonrising, lakerunner
Re: Project Twin
OK on my way. I could hit two monster boats in one run if I stopped by the chain of lakes to see JT 

ToddBob
'Al the Mirthmaker' (The Third)
Build-- viewtopic.php?f=16&t=14007
Rainy Lake/Voyageurs National Park
International Falls, MN
'Al the Mirthmaker' (The Third)
Build-- viewtopic.php?f=16&t=14007
Rainy Lake/Voyageurs National Park
International Falls, MN
Re: Project Twin
Beers are on ice Todd
Good: Would you believe it, I found a coil unplugged on the port motor. Hopefully that explains my low RPMs
Bad: Selok manual no good.
Seems to skip my motor... after the first read through the lubricating section it seems none of the descriptions apply to me. They speak of the oil level sender being on the main tank. I clearly don't have any wiring on my remote tanks, so no sender there. There's a goofy sensor of some sort on the top of each motor reservoir, can't figure out what they are for. They don't actually go IN TO the oil. They have a small molded in plastic pocket in the tank they slide in to.
If life gives me some spare time this weekend I think I'll put the muffs on and start swapping stuff from motor to motor and see what happens...

Good: Would you believe it, I found a coil unplugged on the port motor. Hopefully that explains my low RPMs

Bad: Selok manual no good.
Seems to skip my motor... after the first read through the lubricating section it seems none of the descriptions apply to me. They speak of the oil level sender being on the main tank. I clearly don't have any wiring on my remote tanks, so no sender there. There's a goofy sensor of some sort on the top of each motor reservoir, can't figure out what they are for. They don't actually go IN TO the oil. They have a small molded in plastic pocket in the tank they slide in to.

If life gives me some spare time this weekend I think I'll put the muffs on and start swapping stuff from motor to motor and see what happens...
Just one boat...after another, after another 

Re: Project Twin
UPDATE:
It appears the sensor to nowhere is a magnetic sensor, that works with a magnetic float inside the engine mounted reservoir. Man, gotta love youtube
I'm on mission....
It appears the sensor to nowhere is a magnetic sensor, that works with a magnetic float inside the engine mounted reservoir. Man, gotta love youtube

I'm on mission....
Just one boat...after another, after another 

- curtiscapk
- Posts: 5441
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2008 8:31 am
- Location: OP KS\Hillsdale Lake
Re: Project Twin
coil plug got me a couple weeks ago as well.....
and I was dropped about 700 rpms too.
you are getting there!

you are getting there!
Craig and Paula
"THE FLOATER" rebuild Spring 2013
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15328
94 Party Barge 24' 115 merc
Turning Point hustler 14 x 13 prop
22mph gps 3 people
12 F150
Overland Park Ks
Hillsdale Lake, KS
"THE FLOATER" rebuild Spring 2013
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15328
94 Party Barge 24' 115 merc
Turning Point hustler 14 x 13 prop
22mph gps 3 people
12 F150
Overland Park Ks
Hillsdale Lake, KS
Re: Project Twin
I think Tuned is screwing with us trying to make sure every one stays on land until he can launch




Just one boat...after another, after another 

Re: Project Twin
glad its coming along!
Ferg's Tritoon Build
[url]http://www.pontoonforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=17012[/url]
[url]http://www.pontoonforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=17012[/url]
Re: Project Twin
ToonGuy wrote:I think Tuned is screwing with us trying to make sure every one stays on land until he can launch
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ToddBob
'Al the Mirthmaker' (The Third)
Build-- viewtopic.php?f=16&t=14007
Rainy Lake/Voyageurs National Park
International Falls, MN
'Al the Mirthmaker' (The Third)
Build-- viewtopic.php?f=16&t=14007
Rainy Lake/Voyageurs National Park
International Falls, MN
- curtiscapk
- Posts: 5441
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2008 8:31 am
- Location: OP KS\Hillsdale Lake
Re: Project Twin
tuned wrote:ToonGuy wrote:I think Tuned is screwing with us trying to make sure every one stays on land until he can launch
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Which will be very soon bwahahaha
Sure it it!


Craig and Paula
"THE FLOATER" rebuild Spring 2013
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15328
94 Party Barge 24' 115 merc
Turning Point hustler 14 x 13 prop
22mph gps 3 people
12 F150
Overland Park Ks
Hillsdale Lake, KS
"THE FLOATER" rebuild Spring 2013
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15328
94 Party Barge 24' 115 merc
Turning Point hustler 14 x 13 prop
22mph gps 3 people
12 F150
Overland Park Ks
Hillsdale Lake, KS
Re: Project Twin
More testing done. Again, the Selok manual doesn't help much so I'm trying to learn as I go. If any one has knowledge of pre-Opti oil injection systems PLEASE...feel free to chime it.
The O/I seems to be a "push - pull" system. On the starboard side of the block there is a port that emits pulses of air. This line runs to the large remote tanks on the boat. There is a pick up in the tank, and this line runs back to the remote tank on the motor. It appears as the injection pump pulls the needed oil from the motor mounted tank, this creates slight vacuum and combined with the pulses of air emitted by the pressure side keeps the oil level in the motor mounted tank 3/4 or more full. When it falls below 3/4 the magnetic float switch sets off dash mounted alarm, giving the operator approx. 30 min of full throttle operation before starving the motor of oil.
Now...I THINK that my problem is a pressure issue. I used fuel fills for my remote oil fill caps because I couldn't find any thing for oil only. After some tinkering last night and going over all my connections, etc. I realized that with the motors running I could feel air escaping around the cap for the remote oil fill. I believe this is my issue. HOWEVER...the air pulses from the block pressure side are extremely low. I'm not sure how much pressure it should build. I can hold my finger on the barb while running and seal it off completely. It will not build enough pressure to push my finger off. How much pressure should this port produce? Any one? Bueler?
I'm going to try to seal the caps on the oil fill remotes, and weather permitting get this thing wet again this weekend. HOPEFULLY this will take care of the issue, if not I'll need to seek some one more knowledgeable on air discharge from the block port. Fingers crossed
On a side note I had the cover finalized yesterday and got the bimini fabric on as well. VERRY satisfied with the finished product, even though the price has increased a couple hundred bucks in the last 2 years.
The O/I seems to be a "push - pull" system. On the starboard side of the block there is a port that emits pulses of air. This line runs to the large remote tanks on the boat. There is a pick up in the tank, and this line runs back to the remote tank on the motor. It appears as the injection pump pulls the needed oil from the motor mounted tank, this creates slight vacuum and combined with the pulses of air emitted by the pressure side keeps the oil level in the motor mounted tank 3/4 or more full. When it falls below 3/4 the magnetic float switch sets off dash mounted alarm, giving the operator approx. 30 min of full throttle operation before starving the motor of oil.
Now...I THINK that my problem is a pressure issue. I used fuel fills for my remote oil fill caps because I couldn't find any thing for oil only. After some tinkering last night and going over all my connections, etc. I realized that with the motors running I could feel air escaping around the cap for the remote oil fill. I believe this is my issue. HOWEVER...the air pulses from the block pressure side are extremely low. I'm not sure how much pressure it should build. I can hold my finger on the barb while running and seal it off completely. It will not build enough pressure to push my finger off. How much pressure should this port produce? Any one? Bueler?
I'm going to try to seal the caps on the oil fill remotes, and weather permitting get this thing wet again this weekend. HOPEFULLY this will take care of the issue, if not I'll need to seek some one more knowledgeable on air discharge from the block port. Fingers crossed

On a side note I had the cover finalized yesterday and got the bimini fabric on as well. VERRY satisfied with the finished product, even though the price has increased a couple hundred bucks in the last 2 years.
- Attachments
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- 33.JPG (145.25 KiB) Viewed 6521 times
Just one boat...after another, after another 

Re: Project Twin
Hey Ty,
Maybe it's cuz mine's an opti, but The motor mounted oil tank should always be full. If it's not full, unscrew the cap a bit while it's idling and it'll bleed the air out of the tank. Tighten the cap once it starts leaking oil out of the top.
Again, that's for an opti, so yours may be different.
Mine was close to full, but not 100% when my mechanic said to do it. I let it idle for about a minute (maybe less) and it filled right up.
Maybe it's cuz mine's an opti, but The motor mounted oil tank should always be full. If it's not full, unscrew the cap a bit while it's idling and it'll bleed the air out of the tank. Tighten the cap once it starts leaking oil out of the top.
Again, that's for an opti, so yours may be different.
Mine was close to full, but not 100% when my mechanic said to do it. I let it idle for about a minute (maybe less) and it filled right up.
Ferg's Tritoon Build
[url]http://www.pontoonforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=17012[/url]
[url]http://www.pontoonforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=17012[/url]
Re: Project Twin
That's the problem...mine won't fill on it's own. I believe it's either due to a pressure leak in the system and/or my pulses of air emitting from the block are not strong enough to keep it full. When it idles I no oil comes back into the tank. I can stick my finger in and feel nothing coming from the inlet line. I even pulled the pressure line off the block side, and hit it with the air compressor but because of the pressure leak at the cap still no oil flows. It makes sense, that it shouldn't take much pressure to keep the oil flowing in a closed system after you get the air bled out.
I think I know what the problem is, just need to figure out how to fix it. Hopefully there is not an issue with the strength of the air pulses from the block pressure port.
I think I know what the problem is, just need to figure out how to fix it. Hopefully there is not an issue with the strength of the air pulses from the block pressure port.
Just one boat...after another, after another 

Re: Project Twin
Cover looks awesome Ty, I'll need to have one of those made for my toon when I get it finished.. What are you using for the support poles under it? And can you trailer it?
Sorry about the issues your having, I wish I could help but im no engine mechanic. I guess worst case sanerio, you could bypass the oil injection. I hate mixing oil myself but I did it on my last boat because it was cheaper than fixing the injection system and I planned on selling the boat anyway!
Sorry about the issues your having, I wish I could help but im no engine mechanic. I guess worst case sanerio, you could bypass the oil injection. I hate mixing oil myself but I did it on my last boat because it was cheaper than fixing the injection system and I planned on selling the boat anyway!
Ryan, Martha, Ana and Nathan Toler.
(SOLD)1992 24' monark sun spa 240 1996 (rebuilt) Johnson 112
2014 South Bay chassis (IN THE WORKS)
2006 dodge ram quad cab
Crosby Texas
(SOLD)1992 24' monark sun spa 240 1996 (rebuilt) Johnson 112
2014 South Bay chassis (IN THE WORKS)
2006 dodge ram quad cab
Crosby Texas
Re: Project Twin
Thanks Ryan. I'm really picky about having oil injection...and I think it's a huge selling point. I know...to each his own. The cover uses the adjustable cam lock poles that fit the plastic vented tops. It's a factory cover. Another (small) bonus of living up here in the artic circle for 6 months of the year...just run down to the shop that makes all the covers for South Bay, Bennington, etc etc etc. Technically, no cover that does not have safety straps is a towing cover, although I did trailer a short distance with it. I never trailer with my cover on so it doesn't bother me.
Just one boat...after another, after another 

Re: Project Twin
Hey Ty,
Another suggestion is www.bbcboards.net.
There's a mercury forum and the main guy on the forum is quite the knowledgeable source. He's really good about helping people. I've been on there getting a lot of assistance from Don (username: EuropeanMarine)
Good luck!
Another suggestion is www.bbcboards.net.
There's a mercury forum and the main guy on the forum is quite the knowledgeable source. He's really good about helping people. I've been on there getting a lot of assistance from Don (username: EuropeanMarine)
Good luck!
Ferg's Tritoon Build
[url]http://www.pontoonforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=17012[/url]
[url]http://www.pontoonforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=17012[/url]
Re: Project Twin
WHEW...what a busy couple of weeks. I've been working out the bugs on her and have come a long way. I figured out my oil injection issue, fixed one faulty gauge, and ALMOST have my water in the fuel issue taken care of. Thought I had it all out but man that pesky water seems to come out of no where. Still some tinkering to do but the good news is I spent a few hours on Saturday AND Sunday on the lake! Did some fishing, some swimming on the sand bar, a few cold ones, and oh ya....some speed testing
Full tanks, lightly loaded, motors trimmed all the way down, running in approx. a 2' chop she cruises at a solid 30MPH at 3K RPM. She tends to stay at 10 = 10 as you speed up so approx. 40MPH / 4K, and just below 50MPH / 5K.
Then I trimmed up...HOLY CATS
. As you can imagine this boat stays on top of the water pretty good. But man you hit the trim and it JUMPS out of the water! I only picked up about 200 RPM but jumped up to 56-57 MPH and might have seen it hit 58 once
.
So at this point she sits at a best of 57MPH at 5200 RPM. This is on my pair of 23 pitch Mirage props. I have a pair of 19 pitch Raptures but I doubt I'll ever have the boat loaded enough to even bother testing them. I still need to fix both trim gauges, and I never even came close to blowing out so I'm guessing this set up is good for a solid 60MPH with some more tweaking and seat time. Anddddddd....here's the proof:

Full tanks, lightly loaded, motors trimmed all the way down, running in approx. a 2' chop she cruises at a solid 30MPH at 3K RPM. She tends to stay at 10 = 10 as you speed up so approx. 40MPH / 4K, and just below 50MPH / 5K.
Then I trimmed up...HOLY CATS


So at this point she sits at a best of 57MPH at 5200 RPM. This is on my pair of 23 pitch Mirage props. I have a pair of 19 pitch Raptures but I doubt I'll ever have the boat loaded enough to even bother testing them. I still need to fix both trim gauges, and I never even came close to blowing out so I'm guessing this set up is good for a solid 60MPH with some more tweaking and seat time. Anddddddd....here's the proof:
- Attachments
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- 34.JPG (98.1 KiB) Viewed 6377 times
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- 35.JPG (103.55 KiB) Viewed 6374 times
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- 36.JPG (124.44 KiB) Viewed 6374 times
Just one boat...after another, after another 
