Question for Sharkhide users!

[scbwr]

OK....I've go an '89 pontoon with dull, discolored toons. If I were to get involved with cleaning them and applying Sharkhide, I have a question. Do you think it would be worth it to try to polish the toons, or just clean them good and apply the Sharkhide coating? Will older aluminum toons really polish up that well, or am I better off to just shoot for a nice even flat aluminum finish?

And, for a 24' pontoon, how much cleaner and finish product do you think I would need?

Finally, does the cleaner have any warnings about using it near grass, or near wells? My toon is propped up in a location not that far from my water well.

[dockholiday]

The first toon I polished was a 89 model, and it turned out well. Just keep in mind any imperfections will be enhanced by the polishing. Small ones can be taken out with wet/dry sandpaper, 400 grit +or-. The problem with removing deep gouges is you would have to remove so much metal and I am not exactly sure how thick the walls are on the toons.
Think I would start in your worst area on the toon and do that area first, because it will only get better from there, If you can't get that area looking good, I would just use the sharkhide protectant. Their polish works really well and is the best I have used. Mother and Meguiars work also but not as quickly as the sharkhide polish.
doc

[scbwr]

Thanks for the reply. I'm not compulsive/anal enough to spend days getting a chrome-like shine, so I tend to think that if the cleaner does the trick, I'd settle for a nice dull aluminum finish.

[2toytrucks]

Oh yeah, a place where I can actually be a benefit! If you follow up the Sharkhide cleaner with the Sharkhide clearcoat you would end up with a very nice looking "anodized/clean/dull (not mirror) finish. IMHO I made the mistake of polishing my logs with too much anodized trim on the 'toon, waiting for the time/energy to redo them with the way I described. It should be the best of both worlds, sweet looking logs and an easy to care for finish.



edit; public school grammer.

[scbwr]

And thanks for your worth! Now...do I have the ambition to clean those toons and apply the finish coat. I tend to be in a hurry to get the toon in the water!

Guess it's time for a little more self discipline

[2toytrucks]

I have not used the cleaner but applying the clearcoat takes about 15 minutes per log, very easy to apply. So it would not take a long time to complete your project.

[t_birder]

Hey guys,
Thanks for helping with scbwr's questions. I try to keep up with the Sharkhide questions on the forum, but it's tuff to get on every day.
Thanks again you guys,
Clint

[FloterBoter]

i used coil cleaner to clean my two 28 foot logs. started with the non-acid and returned it to get the acid stuff. important to wear gloves and eye protection. it cleaned the logs up really well. they looked whitish for a few days and then cleared up. i don't bother polishing them. i think i went through about 4 gallons of acid.

[WaltF]

Ok, its about time to re-appy sharkhide for the upcoming season.
This will be season #2, and the sharkhide seemed to do well for season #1.

The toons have that often seen horz line running down the length due to the water level, and its deff dirtier below that line, but i blasted the thin layer of algae off at the end of last season, and now im wondering how to proceed with getting it ready for the next season.

I dont think im up for polishing it to a mirror finish, but i would like to restore it back to like it was last year.

How should i go about cleaning them to a uniform look and then apply the SH?
Should i try and remove all the old SH before trying to clean them?
Clean em with what? Use thinner at all in the process?

[2toytrucks]

Walt it is 3:52 am, The caffine has yet to reach my bloodstream but I will try and make sense.

Handwash and follow it up with some clearcoat safe car wax. Sharkhide will last several years on a boat that is trailerd, only rubbing off in areas like bunkboards, If the Sharkhide is rubbed off/wornout etc... the aluminium will be discolored from the oxidation. It sounds like you just need a good cleaning.

You do not want to have to remove the Sharkhide as it is a job. Use many, many, many, many blue shop towels soaked with laquer thinner, keep flipping the towel as it gets gooey and sticky quickly.

Sharkhide is self etching, so if it needs to be touched up or you have some dock rash or what have you, just clean the area and apply Sharkhide overlapping into the areas that still had coverage.

[t_birder]

i used coil cleaner to clean my two 28 foot logs. started with the non-acid and returned it to get the acid stuff. important to wear gloves and eye protection. it cleaned the logs up really well. they looked whitish for a few days and then cleared up. i don't bother polishing them. i think i went through about 4 gallons of acid.

Hey there Floter,
Glad you came back to our team! I've never found a non acid based cleaner either that performed as I require.
For what it's worth, I typicaly use well less than 1/2 gallon of the Sharkhide Cleaner per boat.
I know it's not cheap, but like my dad told me for years, I get what i pay for.
I'll throw a couple before and after shots up for you.
Clint

[/img]

][/img]

[t_birder]

Ok, its about time to re-appy sharkhide for the upcoming season.
This will be season #2, and the sharkhide seemed to do well for season #1.

The toons have that often seen horz line running down the length due to the water level, and its deff dirtier below that line, but i blasted the thin layer of algae off at the end of last season, and now im wondering how to proceed with getting it ready for the next season.

I dont think im up for polishing it to a mirror finish, but i would like to restore it back to like it was last year.

How should i go about cleaning them to a uniform look and then apply the SH?
Should i try and remove all the old SH before trying to clean them?
Clean em with what? Use thinner at all in the process?

Hey there Walt,
If we're lucky, the left over residue and such will be ON the Sharkhide. If that's the case, you can remove it with Lacquer Thinner and paper towels. I know 2toytrucs had a time of it, but I think we can make the job go a bit quicker. Take some thinner and just scrub about a foot square area on the worst spot you have and let me know if it comes off and we can procede from there.
Clint

[t_birder]

[quote="2toytrucks"]
You do not want to have to remove the Sharkhide as it is a job. Use many, many, many, many blue shop towels soaked with laquer thinner, keep flipping the towel as it gets gooey and sticky quickly.

Hey there guy,
Sorry we wore you out trying to remove the Sharkhide. Soon as I get two nickles to rub together, I'm going to add a video clip to the site SHOWING how to remove it. Explaining in print is a bit hard. Did you use the spray bottle and brush to do it? If not, I can see how it turned into a project.
Let me know next time you need to do it and I'll call you with the details.
Hey and as always, thanks for sharing your Sharkhide knowledge with the guys and gals on here.
Clint

[FloterBoter]

walt, you could use herbie's solution...

1. pull boat down by herb
2. go down to 3rd & lex where the illegals hangout
3. have half a dozen of them climb into your pickup truck
4. give them some brushes and cleaner
5. when they're done, pay them 2 bucks each plus a pack of smokes and some weed
6. try to find a job that hasn't been taken by illegals or shipped to china or india--good luck with that

[WaltF]

Hey Clint!

Thanks fro the info!

Ya, im pretty sure the little bit of 'funk' is ON the sharkshide.
And its not like the toons look crappy... the sharkshide did a GREAT job of protecting it through last summer in the slip.
I just want to clean em up and reapply.

Maybe i dont have to pull the old SH off before laying down another coat?

Thats is pretty much what im wondering.... do i have to pull the previous years coat off every year before reapplying?
Or can i just buff away at it with a green scrubby then reapply?

Im not a clean freak.. i just want to protect the toy...

Walt