Earmuffs

[ROLAND]

Hey Guys.... I'm still not quite understanding this "earmuffs" thing. From what I'm reading on this forum is that earmuffs are what you connect your water hose to when you want to run your outboard at your home. Ok, what I don't understand is when I bought my toon about 6 months ago, the salesman at the dealership showd me this black line that had a plastic coupling on it. He told me to just unscrew the coupling from the line and screw my water hose into the coupling to run my motor. But that's not what I'm reading when we talk about earmuffs. Like I said before I'm new to boating so alot of this stuff goes over my head and have to rely on the experience of you guys ( and gals ) that have been doing it for awhile. Thanks again.

Roland
2010 Bennington 20 SFi
Yamaha 75 hp 4 stroke
Shreveport, Louisiana

[lakerunner]

That is a motor flush in case you use in salt water or get a lot of mud or sand sucked up. The muffs cover your water intake on lower unit

[dockholiday]

The muffs were the only way to run the outboard a few years ago. Not sure when they started putting the hose receptacle on but my 08 has one.
I have only ran it one time using the provided connection. Water came out of the pee hole and around the prop, I think. I have not looked at my manual (think I left it in the boat), but to my way of thinking if water is coming out the pee hole you are good to go. Some say the manual says it is for flushing the motor and not for running. I plan to ask the merc mechanic to make sure.
doc

[trott46]

Im not sure where the flush on the newer motors is but i would not recommend running the engine without muffs. Main reason being is the the muffs put water past the impeller (water pump) and keep it cool. If it does not stay cool when the engine is running it will burn up and you will have to replace the impeller. I know i go a step further and run mine on a dip tank for at home running. I havent worked as a Mechanic in a few years so I may incorrect on the new flush system. Anyone else know anything on the new systems?

[trott46]

Thanks Bamby for the link. Roland this is a link to the yamaha owners manual with info on flushing. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/serv ... 2_1402.pdf Go to page 52 and it will give you the info on the factory flush system.

[WaltF]

When i first took delivery of my toon, the mercury mechanic hooked up some muffs and ran the engine to make sure all was good....
So i figure if the mechanic did it, its an approved procedure for running the motor when its not in the water.

I do it at the end of every season so i can fill the motor with 'pink' stuff when i winterize it.
Basically, i put on the muffs with the hose attached to the house and run it till the engine reaches operation temp, that way i know the thermostat is 'open'. Then i flip a valve, and the pink stuff starts to run through the engine.... after about 5 gallons have run through, i shut it down and put it to bed for the winter.

Course, you only need to do this winterization process if you have an I/O engine on your boat.

This is a link to the winterization kit i bought.
I/O Winterization Kit

[Parasympathetic]

Hmmm, part of the description of your winterization kit says: "For front mounted raw water pump systems, use the Flush Adapter, sold separately".

Makes me wonder cause mine is a front mounted water pump but I used the muffs. This was my first year doing it myself. My manual doesn't say anything about winterizing techniques.

[Ghost Rider]

I know that when i installed a flush kit on my sons waverunner. The instructions siad to never turn the hose on untill the motor is running. It also said to turn the hose off then turn engine off. I always wondered why. The instructions said severe engine damage could occur. I dont know if the impeller could not overcome the water pressure or what.

[ROLAND]

It's funny how many "different" takes you can get on a subject. The more I read, the more confused I become. For example, earlier today I was at my local bennington dealership and I asked one of the powers that be about flushing the motor ( yamaha F75 ). He says just hook up a garden hose to the garden hose connector hanging from the upper unit, and flush the motor for 15 minutes. No need to run the motor, just let it run for 15 minutes... ok, simple enough. I get home and check the manual, and I'll be darned if it's not in the manual too.. exactly what the guy at the dealership told me. In the manual it's under the heading of flushing the "power unit"... ah, but then a few pages later, I come across the " flushing with flushing attachment ". the instructions there are:
1- remove the top cowling and prop
2- install the flushing attachment ( are these earmuffs ) over the water cooling inlet.
3-run the engine at a fast idle while in nuetral position while supplying a fresh water.
4-shut down the engine, turn off water, replace cowling and prop..

also below all this it says " flushing attachments " are available at your local yamaha dealer.. so this has got to be earmuffs, right? But the local dealer rep told me today that the earmuffs were built in on this motor, even though the instructions I just gave you came from the owners manual for this motor.

So I've explained 2 "forms" of flushing which has left me even more confused. So what the heck am I supposed to do, if anything..... The real confusing part for me is that they list 2 flushing methods in the manual, the garden hose one and the " using the flushing attachment " one. Are they the same thing, if so then the garden hose running without the motor running is by far the easiest thing don't you think. also on the second option, why would I need to take the prop off.... hey, anybody that knows for a fact, please give me the difinitive solution here. Thanks

Roland
2010 Bennington 20 SFi
Yamaha F 75

[trott46]

yes there is two ways to flush your motor the ear muffs will flush the hole system from the impeller on through from what i see and read on the factory flush it is for flushing the powerhead on out run with the muffs do not run with the factory flush if it were me i would stick to using the muff i think it would be a better way as your would be flushing everything also to run the motor at home you do HAVE TO have the muffs that is in the manual for your motor

[WaltF]

Hmmm, part of the description of your winterization kit says: "For front mounted raw water pump systems, use the Flush Adapter, sold separately".

Makes me wonder cause mine is a front mounted water pump but I used the muffs. This was my first year doing it myself. My manual doesn't say anything about winterizing techniques.

Thats a good question. Hey BMR, whats your take on this and procedure on your 3.0?

[Aint Skeered]

yes there is two ways to flush your motor the ear muffs will flush the hole system from the impeller on through from what i see and read on the factory flush it is for flushing the powerhead on out run with the muffs do not run with the factory flush if it were me i would stick to using the muff i think it would be a better way as your would be flushing everything also to run the motor at home you do HAVE TO have the muffs that is in the manual for your motor

Off topic but Just wondering how fast is your toon? you have a tri toon with the same engine as me. Just curious to how much performance gain there is from the 3rd toon.

[LTB Racing]

The flush port was designed originally so you could flush out larger engines on boats that stayed in the water without running the engine.. slowly it became standard on almost all engines. The engine can be run on it.... however, if you are running the engine using the flush port I would recommend not revving the engine past idle and wait to start it until you see water flowing out of the intakes of the lower unit....otherwise it works fine. Either method will work fine...its your preference.... IMO using muffs and running the engine probably does a slightly better job of flushing the system.

[jafo9]

I know that when i installed a flush kit on my sons waverunner. The instructions siad to never turn the hose on untill the motor is running. It also said to turn the hose off then turn engine off. I always wondered why. The instructions said severe engine damage could occur. I dont know if the impeller could not overcome the water pressure or what.

on a jet ski, always motor on, water on, water off, motor off. the force of the water on the hose can force water into the cylinder and cause a hydrolock. running the motor after you have turned off the water also help clear the exhaust of water. they don't drain as well as an OB so it really helps to burp the throttle a few times to clear the water. you typically can't run a ski for longer than a few minutes as the jet pump isn't cooled properly by the hose water.

my honda has a flush valve and the manual is clear not to try and run the motor off a hose. they specify muffs. on the honda, if you run the motor without water at all, you risk burning up the water pump which is rubber and makes contact with the case that surrounds it (on a jet ski the coolant water is siphoned off the jet pump).

[badmoonrising]

Thats a good question. Hey BMR, whats your take on this and procedure on your 3.0?

I always use the muffs, allow the thermostat to open and run it at fast idle. Despite using both boats in semi-salt water, the Starcraft's manifolds are still fine after 10 seasons. I've never used the flush attachment that came with the 3.0 maintenance package.