Fouling and Lightening

[Ron Burgundy]

It makes me like my lift more every day. Best $1000 I ever spent when I think of what 20 years of bottom paint would cost if the labor was free

You should go into business. In my neck of the woods a professionally installed 10,000 lb lift goes for 11-12K.

I'm still trying to find out who makes this.

[GregF]

My lift is a lot simpler than that. It is just 4 pilings, an Ace 401 lift plate and some pulleys and bearing plates on a 2x12 frame. It has lived here 20 years through 2 major hurricanes and a half dozen minor ones.

I pick up the boat with the lift rings.

You certainly do not need a 10,000 pound lift for a pontoon boat.

I did do all the work myself but it was pretty easy. Setting the pilings is the hardest part. In deep water like you have I would farm that out to a contractor. The guy who just did our community docks used a long stick boom truck and was able to reach out almost 40' to get the outboard pilings driven in. They might bring a barge for yours.

I did get the Ace parts wholesale and that helped but I think the whole thing is still only about $1000. The wood and the pilings is the wild card.

Marine contractors do charge a lot of money for what they do.
The dock the HOA had built was $6,000 and a similar one we built ourselves was less than $2,000

[Ron Burgundy]

It's been 11 days without my boat. I hope they finish soon, or I might have to start doing chores around the house.

[badmoonrising]

Mine goes in the water Thursday.

[Ron Burgundy]

That's always a good thing. Thanks again for spotting my problem.



I am also hoping that my marina calls Thursday to say my 'toon is ready. The weather looks to be good for a boat ride in the Gulf.

Thursday
Northeast winds around 5 knots becoming west in the afternoon. Seas 2 feet or less. Bay and inland waters smooth

[badmoonrising]

Anytime. glad to help. Our floating dock was severely damaged by ice over the winter. There was a hole between shore and my boat, it was like a Japanese game show trying to get to my slip. They called today and said it's fixed. How well, I'll see when I launch

[Ron Burgundy]

There was a hole between shore and my boat, it was like a Japanese game show trying to get to my slip.

[WaltF]

Dropp'n er in on Sunday!

[Ron Burgundy]

Had bad news today. One hole about 3-4mm, one or two about 2-3mm, and a few deep pitting spots. My boat is going to the welder tomorrow. $$

Thanks for alerting me BMR. This could have made for a bad day out in the Gulf.

The marina suggested using primer and then Rhinolining on the hull after the holes have been welded just as added insurance. Thoughs? I have read a few articles online about this and it seems to be successful.

Sorry for the brevity, but this isn't No Hold Barred and I can't think of too many words other than curses.

[Ron Burgundy]

Rhino liner user

April 16, 2009

I am a commercial fisherman and fighting aluminum electrolysis has become a way of life...and everybody (fishermen) have different ways to fix it, yet we all find electrolysis never sleeps and the battle goes on...
First off prevention from the start is the key...protect new aluminum with a good zinc chromate primer and bottom paint. Also sealing all gaps with 3M 5200 marine sealant is key and Zinc the hull or even hang a zinc wired to the hull over the side during short stays in the water.
Right now I am restoring a 14' aluminum Lund skiff that was abandoned for ?years and has serious electrolysis cancer; 30+ pin holes, 6 1-2" holes in the actual hull itself, and lots of areas of pitting looking like the skin of an orange from the waterline down.
My plan of attack; Taking the surface down to bare aluminum, rinsing the surface and letting it dry, scrubbing the surface and pitted areas with a strong vinegar/water mix and a wire brush.(there are sprays I've used in the past that oxidize the bare aluminum but I can't seem to remember what they are...breathing too much aluminum dust I guess).
Then, brushing all areas with acetone and sealing all seams with 3M 5200 and filling all holes with a good marine epoxy.

Next paint surface with zinc chromate primer.
I am going to try spraying the bottom with typical truck bed liner and there are alot of brands out there, Rino liner, Line-X, but there about $12/sq. ft. applied by the shop.
I'm going to try "Al's Bed Liner". Its do it yourself cheaper $80/gallon + $45 for the sprayer/hopper and covers an area 22 sq. ft. @ 1/16".
Don't want the boat to stay in the water too long to avoid barnicle growth but grass/slime should pressure wash easy.
Going to hang a zinc when not in use. Good Luck to all fighting similar problems. OUT.

Michael Galligan
Commercial Fisherman - Friday Harbor, Washington

[margaritaman]

Ron,
Watch out for Rhino liner because it is not a smooth surface and will affect your speed. Also it is much heavier than paint per gallon which adds to your weight.

[badmoonrising]

When I restored my '68 Starcraft, I applied Herculiner to the inside of the hull. It's a riveted boat, so after replacing a dozen leaky rivets, I used that to ensure no leaks. 11 seasons later, and not a drop of water in the boat.

When I used to post on the aluminum boat repair boards, it was common to do this as well as the outer hull. Everyone who did it, loved it.

Incidentally, I already planned to do the outer hull of my Starcraft (I am watching a few eBay auctions for gallons of Herculiner now ), probably late May when I get time. It's due for bottom paint anyway...

As for slowing the boat down, I wouldn't think it would much that you would notice. Ever see the Mythbuster's episode where they did a Ford compact up like a golfball with dimples and it actually went faster ??

I think it's a good idea if you have holes and pits.

[Ron Burgundy]

Whew...I feel much better after reading that. I was holding my breath expecting the worst. Glad to know you concur with the marina.

I did read about the weight being a factor, but if I go from 17mph to 16mph no big deal for me. Safety is my main concern, and it would make the hull tougher so that I can beach my 'toon.

What do you guys think about foam filled pontoon's? I am considering it down the road. Do they inject the foam thorugh the drain plugs?

[GregF]

I have had great luck with the zinc chromate primer I put on my boat 21 years ago. I used a polyurethane paint and it is still doing well too but you are only going for bottom paint. I think the problem may be finding someone who will sell you zinc chromate. There are some good 2 part etching primers for aluminum if it is not really all that clean. I would put another kind of primer over that (or maybe that poly paint) and then shoot on your bottom paint. That gives you the protective barrier BMR talks about. You still need that first coat to stick.

As for your holes, they sound like the regular pits you get in salt water and I bet they were there before the guy put on the bottom paint. It would have been interesting to watch that paint come off. If the holes were primed, that is your answer.

[badmoonrising]

Yeah I'm thinking the previous owner may have painted it to cover the damage..happens all the time.