Yet ANOTHER Ski/Tow Bar-need specs

[tuned]

I am working on my South Bay (sort of) 925tt i/o. It did not come with a tow bar and I am hoping to make one. The mounts are there and I just need to bend one up. I have a muffler guy that thinks his machine is stought enough to do the work.
I can source stainless tube (1 1/2" OD) without much problem. I just need to know the wall thickness. I'm guessing 1/8" (.125) to maybe 3/16.
Can anyone with a removable FACTORY tow bar please take a look and send me the spec? It wouldn't even have to be South Bay brand. I just need a starting point.

Not only do I plan to ski behind this beast, the bar is going to become very important as a grab handle back on the swim platform. As I am in the process of fabbing up my sun bench, my railing (where you would normally grab) is about to disappear. The end result without a grab handle is likely to be SPLOOSH!

[Liberty MO]

Im not sure if it's on option, but I really like our Sun Tracker's ski pylon as opposed to a large bar. It's completely removable just by unscrewing it from the base.

[Capt Sully]

I looked and I can't remove the factory installed tow bar. it looks and feels very strong heavy and thick. note the brace, you will need to add that. Good luck with your build.

pontoon rear.jpg (113.69 KiB) Viewed 15226 times

[Bamaman]

You can buy one like above on EBay for $250-275. Looks like the tow bar on my Bennie at twice the cost.

[PlaynDoc]

Im not sure if it's on option, but I really like our Sun Tracker's ski pylon as opposed to a large bar. It's completely removable just by unscrewing it from the base.

Never did lay my eyes upon a ski pylon on a pontoon.... What weight/strength is it rated?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the primary reason for having the traditional tow bars on the pontoon, is so you can fully tilt/trim the motor, without hitting anything... and also for more strength...

[tuned]

Thanks guys for the input.
But I don't want any aftermarket stuff. My swim platform is likely too weak to mount anything.
As I mentioned, the mounts for the SouthBay style bar are already THERE and look very stought. All I need to do is bend a single pipe to shape and I am done. I have seen pictures of this bar and it isn't even braced (hence the thick walled pipe). I just checked the gauge of the pipe on my boat that is used as a mount and it is 1/8". So the pipe I need is at least that heavy if not a bit more.

[Liberty MO]

Im not sure if it's on option, but I really like our Sun Tracker's ski pylon as opposed to a large bar. It's completely removable just by unscrewing it from the base.

Never did lay my eyes upon a ski pylon on a pontoon.... What weight/strength is it rated?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the primary reason for having the traditional tow bars on the pontoon, is so you can fully tilt/trim the motor, without hitting anything... and also for more strength...

It solid billet aluminum rated at 1000 lbs or 300hp, whatever that means. The motor trims all the way up without coming close to the pylon. It screws into a socket welled to the frame that goes about 6" deep. Seems rock solid pulling 3 adults on a Super Mabel.

[woolznaz]

Tuned,
Is this one like the one you are fabricating? If so, I can try to get some measurements for you later this week. It does remove simply by pulling out two thick cotter pins.

stern from water 1024.jpg (199.54 KiB) Viewed 14960 times

[tuned]

Tuned,
Is this one like the one you are fabricating? If so, I can try to get some measurements for you later this week. It does remove simply by pulling out two thick cotter pins.

stern from water 1024.jpg

Yep, that is indeed the one. I just couldn't find a shot of it. The only spec I really need is the gauge of the tubing if you would be so kind. Thank you, thank you, thank you

[woolznaz]

Tuned,
It looks to me like the thickness of the steel is about 1/16". It was kind of hard to hold the tape steady and still take the picture, but here you go. From this angle, the picture makes it look like it could be a little heavier, but when I put the camera down and carefully measured, it looked like about 1/16". I know that is all you were asking for, but I took a couple of other pictures that might be helpful for your project. I'm happy to email them to you if you want. Shoot me a PM and I'll send them your way if you are interested.

thickness.JPG (70.48 KiB) Viewed 14789 times

[Cycleman07]

Tuned,
It looks to me like the thickness of the steel is about 1/16". It was kind of hard to hold the tape steady and still take the picture, but here you go. From this angle, the picture makes it look like it could be a little heavier, but when I put the camera down and carefully measured, it looked like about 1/16". I know that is all you were asking for, but I took a couple of other pictures that might be helpful for your project. I'm happy to email them to you if you want. Shoot me a PM and I'll send them your way if you are interested.

thickness.JPG

yep...1/16 is correct from my understanding. Be careful on the eye part where the rope attaches. Needs to be welded by a pro. My South Bay tow bar is incredibly strong and the welds on the eye are incredibly thick.

[tuned]

Wow. I can't believe 1/16 is strong enough, but the picture doesn't lie. Think I'll go 3/32 just to be sure.
Woolz, I am pm-ing you my email. I'll take all the info I can get. Thanks guys.

[woolznaz]

Tuned,
I received your PM and emailed the other photos. Let me know if you do not get the email. Also, reply back if you decide any other photos/specs would be helpful. Good luck.

[ronb]

Well this all makes me feel better about mine.. I used 1/8" tubing and the center foot where the rope loop is double walled... 1/4" thick and welded with a few rosettes along the way.

But not very stock looking... it also was bent by a local muffler shop. He didn't have dies that went down to 1.5" though, so they aren't quite perfect. Something to think about.

Works good though

[tuned]

Well this all makes me feel better about mine.. I used 1/8" tubing and the center foot where the rope loop is double walled... 1/4" thick and welded with a few rosettes along the way.

But not very stock looking... it also was bent by a local muffler shop. He didn't have dies that went down to 1.5" though, so they aren't quite perfect. Something to think about.

Where the heck ya been ron? Questions: When you say double walled, do you mean an inside tube? I can't tell if this is stainless or not. Finally, my exhaust guy says that without a 'sand-filled' bending setup, he will get a couple of creases at the 90 degree bends. I can't quite tell if yours did this or not. If they are on the inside of the bends, I could live with that.