THE FLOATER IS GETTING A REBUILD courtesy (pontoonstuff.com)

[curtiscapk]

Well Good news and bad news........
The cover works awesome!! Lots of heavy rain last week and no pooling and carpet was dry!

I am still frustrated so going with condensed version.

I started unhooking the REgulator and noticed two of its wires were melted together... Damn these barrell connectors suck!
I hooked up the new Regulator first since it was the easiest. Still won't fire. AFter 3 hours I got the Stator replaced air impact is a must for removing the flywheel!!! and a ratchet strap around the flywheel to keep it from spinning. We even had to use the impact on the puller bolt.... I was very careful on this one to make sure nothing was bending etc... ONce stator replaced still wouldn't fire! I spent the next hour looking for any disconnected wires and wouldn't you know I found one unhooked. Still wouldn't start... At this point started looking at the console wiring and damn two wires hanging from the ignition switch... I know I unhooked them all without labeling!!! I go over to the old console and look at the where they could have been hooked up. Well there is no kill switch on this model but at the very bottom corner of the controller hidden by the throttle is an off\run switch....Really 4 years and I had never seen this before! I got it pulled from the old controller and wired to ignition switch. Still wouldn't start. Went over to my Bro's place just pissed. Sent my SIL to get me some brews and my bro came back with me and said smells like massive gas have you cleaned the plugs??? So we clean the plugs let them dry and she fires up!! Put it on the hose and she ran like a champ for 15 minutes. Forward, reverse, fast throttle, slow throttle, Tilt works great alright! I call the admiral to make the call to everyone She is running come on down for the weekend. I turned it off and decided to figure out why the tach has been reading 7k from the time I hooked up the console on the boat. I look for loose wires at the tach and couldn't find any. Try to start it and nothing. After 30 minutes ignition switch won't do anything not even a click. I make the call to tell everyone forget about the weekend. The tilt and trim gets its power from the ig switch and now it doesn't work. It will if I bypass the hot with an accessory wire.. I use my dc tester and all the hot wires to switch now read ground and ground reads ground, only one thats hot is the tach wire in the ig switch. Shit! With the burn marks inside the switch case I am guessing it is the switch if not the only thing left is the switch box 250 bucks! I will start with the 30 dollar switch. I know at this point we should take it in, but with my step daughter getting married money is a little tight... I can't get back down till the end of June now. Needless to say frustration has set in!

pics under the Stator post

[HandymanHerb]

Dam who knew that hex I put on you would work Sorry to hear of the bad luck, I was hoping to see pictures of you in the water by now, hope it ends up being something cheap.

Ours is back in the shop to have final engine adjustment, to replace the class b tires they got shipped by mistake for E's he ordered for us in the first place, but his brother who mounted them didn't catch, so we might be water testing this week God willing, good news is he said he had a few props we can try so maybe he has one that's just right

[curtiscapk]

Oh don't you worry Herb! I was cussing you something fierce on Friday! Hopefully the switch clears it up, it'll just be awhile...

[tuned]

Dang, I just might beat you guys yet. I finally got mine moved outside, so getting closer.
Unfortunate that all three of us are late launchers.

Now about this switch. This is all fresh in my mind, as I just did mine. I have messed with a few of them in prior years as well. Your ignition switch wires should not have any grounded wires. You should have three terminals on it.
#1-Full time hot wire (typically red)
#2-Switched B+ This is your run wire (typically purple). It will send voltage (sometimes thru a relay) to many places on the boat (including tilt and your ignition coil), but only when key is in run position. It is possible that this wire will read close to ground as you may be reading thru a resistive load depending on what is hooked to this wire.
#3-Your starter wire (usually Red/Yellow). This is momentary B+ to crank the motor.

To test, unhook all from your keyswitch.
Then jump or twist wires #1 to #2. Your trim should now work or you have bigger problems. You should also have B+ at your coil.
Then TOUCH #3 wire to the 1/2 bundle. Motor should crank and run.
If this works, then your keyswitch is bad or you had it hooked up backwards.
Good luck mate. Let me know what you find.

[curtiscapk]

Tuned,

merc push to choke has 6 wires.....

[tuned]

Hmmm. Looks like fun. This is the type of thing that I have to stare at for awhile, and I am on the run today. I will try to get back on this later tonight at earliest. I assume that the second diagram is what you are working with. Is the bottom photo your actual switch?

Shooting from the hip, I would take all wires off and try to verify them one at a time. Lots of work.
Find the full time hot wire.
Verify the ground wire.
Then start jumping hot or ground to verify the rest of them.

Instinctively, you are likely on the right path with the keyswitch itself.

[curtiscapk]

This is my burnt switch... The 2nd and 3rd pics are the old Regulator connectors.

[curtiscapk]

MOre pages from manual
Full wiring diagram
Switch
controller which was a little different than pictured as tilt and trim\ ignition switch was on dash and on\off switch was hidden behind controller on the old console.

[tuned]

Yep, you got some complexity to deal with there. When I get into something like this, I always try to simplify to one section at a time and verify each one. Starting 'in the middle' will eliminate whole halfs at a time. Whatever is left over is usually the problem.
Since your keyswitch is suspect, that is certainly a good spot to start. You should be able to make that engine run and do it consistently without the key in the picture.
The attachment labeled 'Key/chokeswitch continuity test' looks like a nice simplified diagram. The others are a bit small for my old eyes to focus on.
I would take all wires off.
Verify B+ on your red/purple
It looks like you might have a 'switched ground' heading to your coil (mine is switched hot). You need to carefully check your schematic to verify this before testing. If this is the case, you should be able to jump ground to your Black/Yellow 'ignition kill' wire. There is a lanyard switch that is part of this circuit, so try to jump 'downstream' of it in order to eliminate it from your test. Leave these connected when trying to start the motor
Touch B+ to your white/purple choke wire and it should click.
Touch B+ to your Yellow/red and starter should crank. Neutral safety switch is part of this circuit, so try to jump past it. Using your choke wire as well, you should be able to start and run the motor.
Isn't this fun?
Your tach and/or trim issues should have nothing to do with runability, although they do provide an important clue that makes both of us suspicious of your keyswitch.
At the risk of offending, another clue that would make me suspicious of an area is that all the wiring was pulled and reinstalled recently. It would make me consider the possibility of the wires being hooked up wrong.
The simple jump tests should tell you many things. Please take the time or ask the questions before messing with that 'ignition kill circuit' as I am unfamiliar with how it works and would hate to be responsible for bad advice. The rest should be pretty straight up. Good luck, bring plenty of beer.

[curtiscapk]

Thanks tuned!! I found an entire ignition harness "new" old stock never used" on the internet that looks like plug and play directly into the harness to the motor with the switch and two keys for 50 bucks!

[HandymanHerb]

Thanks tuned!! I found an entire ignition harness "new" old stock never used" on the internet that looks like plug and play directly into the harness to the motor with the switch and two keys for 50 bucks!

[tuned]

Thanks tuned!! I found an entire ignition harness "new" old stock never used" on the internet that looks like plug and play directly into the harness to the motor with the switch and two keys for 50 bucks!

YaHoy! That is another way to troubleshoot. I have used it myself to great effect. You still need plenty of beer tho

[curtiscapk]

Went with cheaper switch to make sure that was the issue first...... We'll see this weekend AND NEW PLUGS!

[curtiscapk]

Well finally going down Saturday... Let's hope it is the switch! Wish me luck!

[redbeard]

Luck.