Has anyone modified railings?

[tuned]

Still working on the South Bay build. Nice new railings with the South Bay sweeping braces.

Starboard.jpg (78.03 KiB) Viewed 7130 times

As you can see there is no Starboard side door. The Port door is in the wrong place as well because of the wheelhouse that I will be putting on.
Of course, when docking, my crew can tend to the front corners outside the playpen, but I much prefer the safety of general loading/unloading of generally loaded people out the side doors of my soon-to-be-ex boat.

I am hoping to cut doors directly into both railings, as I would never get a custom door to match. Has anybody done this before? I would have to peel back enough skin (or not) to weld in some vertical railing tube in order to make the door. Some careful cutting on my part, then find a good mig/tig guy. Finally fix the skin as best I can.

Can I perhaps leave the skin in place while doing this? Or will it seriously discolor from the heat. Skin repair otions can range from epoxy, to rivets, to ordering more South Bay skin in the right colors and scab repairing it?

I cerainly could use some input on this touchy one. I would hate to bung it up at this point.

[ronb]

Where is the damned 'unfriend' button on this forum? (blaphemer!)

Ok, now that I got that out of the way....

I'd contact toonguy again, see if he has any spare doors that he could sell you, just to get the frames and top curvature.

As far as the side panels go they can't be anywhere near the welding sparks, either remove the panel, peal it back, or get some welding paper or blankets to cover them (remove is best but most time consuming, but it will give you more space to work when you start trimming the panels for the new doors

If you get lucky and can get whole doors, you will still have to make new frames and transfer over the arching braces. Two side doors would be awesome, but a little more work because you might have cut out the old arches

Just thoughts.
-ron

[Rodeo Clown DC]

Still working on the South Bay build. Nice new railings with the South Bay sweeping braces.

That, Sir, is BEAUTIFUL. I love that kind of Bauhaus look. It looks like something out of a 40's era sci-fi book.

[tuned]

I'd contact toonguy again, see if he has any spare doors that he could sell you, just to get the frames and top curvature.

As far as the side panels go they can't be anywhere near the welding sparks, either remove the panel, peal it back, or get some welding paper or blankets to cover them (remove is best but most time consuming, but it will give you more space to work when you start trimming the panels for the new doors
-ron

Thanks Ron. I am hoping to not buy anything further (unless I need to repair/replace skin). Just do straight vertical cuts on the existing rails and weld in four new uprights, two for the rail and two for the door. The back edge of the door would start about at the post where the arches sweep up. Square doors will look fine as long as all the braces/arches line up.
Do you (or anyone else) know how this skin is attached? I haven't had time to look real seriously at it yet. Just digging for info.
I was just researching and it appears as if gas micro welding may be prefered over mig for something this small and delicate. Any thoughts all you welders?

[ronb]

Before I bought my 922CR, it took a punch in the nose. I will get you some pictures of some 'not so good' welding/repair work. I mean it isn't obvious, and I don't know what process they used, but you will see that the joints are discolored and the weld puddle wasn't nearly as nice as the original assembly. And I think the original panels were coated or painted, not bare aluminum, so your coloring may not match so great. But creating your own doors will let you build them as wide as you like, which would be nice if you carry a wide load.

In regards to how the panels are attached... I *AssUmeD* that your railing was 'bare' and that you'd have easy access to the backside?

I have never seen the backsides of any of my outer panels, except the doors (front/side/rear). I can press my panels *in* away from the styled side mouldings leading me to believe that it is only attached at the top and bottom railings (the straight ones). I can also tell you that the color inside the styled railings is a giant sticker, not paint (one of mine has a serious stretch/crack from sun fading)

If you are really curious to know how it was originally built, either your I could call Forest River. I've called them about random stuff in the past and they are very friendly even with relatively odd questions.

-ron

[GregF]

I imagine the original was TIG welded and the repair was MIG.

[NH Tooner]

I cut in a 30" door on a South bay pontoon for wheelchair access. I cut using a Hitachi mitre saw with a aluminum cutting blade. Cut it like butter, skin and all. Then had the rail tig welded together. A good welder can do it without effecting the skin. I did not remove the skin.

[tuned]

I cut in a 30" door on a South bay pontoon for wheelchair access. I cut using a Hitachi mitre saw with a aluminum cutting blade. Cut it like butter, skin and all. Then had the rail tig welded together. A good welder can do it without effecting the skin. I did not remove the skin.

Ooh Dave. You are my new hero. Exactly the info I am looking for. If it isn't to much bother, a few more questions:
1. The photos don't show me finished shots. I was wondering what you did with your new uprights? Did you just butt them on to the raw edge you produced with the saw? It is hard to tell from the shots, but it looks as if some of the skin is cut further back from the original tubing cut?
2. When you say miter saw, I assume you mean a sliding miter saw. Must have been a big one.
3. How did you tend to the skin? Did you leave a bit of flap and tack the edge back on? Perhaps bent it 90 degrees to the inside of the rail?
Thanks bro,
Todd

[NH Tooner]

I cut in a 30" door on a South bay pontoon for wheelchair access. I cut using a Hitachi mitre saw with a aluminum cutting blade. Cut it like butter, skin and all. Then had the rail tig welded together. A good welder can do it without effecting the skin. I did not remove the skin.

Ooh Dave. You are my new hero. Exactly the info I am looking for. If it isn't to much bother, a few more questions:
1. The photos don't show me finished shots. I was wondering what you did with your new uprights? Did you just butt them on to the raw edge you produced with the saw? It is hard to tell from the shots, but it looks as if some of the skin is cut further back from the original tubing cut?
2. When you say miter saw, I assume you mean a sliding miter saw. Must have been a big one.
3. How did you tend to the skin? Did you leave a bit of flap and tack the edge back on? Perhaps bent it 90 degrees to the inside of the rail?
Thanks bro,
Todd

1. I mounted them between the cross members and used 1.25 square plastic black caps to cap the ends of the cut tubes. The skin goes right to the edge. I filed it down a bit ,as to not have a sharp edge and used some 3M 1/2" wide 2 sided auto moulding tape
to secure the skin to the new rail.
2. 12" miter saw. Cut half way then flipped it around and cut the other half. The blade I used was awesome but cost $125.
3. Again the 2 sided auto tape. Be careful, once it sticks, it sticks for good. Remenber to cut between 1/2 and 3/4 " smaller than the inside measurment to allow for Your hinge and opening and closing. You dont want it to tight. I'll look for more pics but I dont think I have any.

[NH Tooner]

This is the front gate section. I widened the fromt gate too, to allow 2 means of egress. Just in case. This is a pic of the 2 sections of rail I installed. The skin was not taped in place yet. I used the black plastic caps to plug the ends .

[NH Tooner]

Just to clarify. I cut the rail to the size I wanted then had to cut another 3/4" off one piece to allow for hinge.

[ToonGuy]

I did the same as Dave, but I used rivits and L brackets to attach my uprights inside the horizontal runs on the original fence. In hind site it would have been a easier to just take it and have it TIGed. I also used the plastic caps to finish the open ends. I was already skinning the rail myself so the panel was no big deal. On your rails the skin is installed by "pinching" it in the small aluminum flap that is built in to the extrusion. Yours will definately be more involved with the sculpted frame work. Find a good TIG guy, and make friends with him . And if you screw it up too bad I probably have some more gates around

[ToonGuy]

I forgot to mention, to finish the edges I used plastic trim strips that have an offset and 3M tape on them. They are used by one of the local manufactures to finish their rail ends.

[tuned]

Thanks for all the replies guys-especially Dave,Ron and Ty.
I am getting close to a game plan. At least I have all winter to do this right. I think I will try a test section with the skin on, in the area with the dark color skin in case it scorches it. The prep will leave the skin just butting up to the new upright, then possibly finish with Ty's suggestion of offset trim (which might help hide any slight discolorations?). Ty, if that is your real name , can you get me a shot, link or sample of this stuff please? Thx bro.

[ToonGuy]

Todd, you can call me Ty, or you can call me International ToonGuy of Mistery I'll do ya one better I think I still have a few of them left I'll send them to ya if I do